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Hong Kong begins to catch its breath
By John Berthelsen

HONG KONG - Flying into Chek Lap Kok airport, especially out of the disheartening decrepitude of the Philippines or the laid-back indolence of Thailand, it is hard to imagine that this is a city famously in terminal decline, as many analysts have predicted.

Chek Lap Kok is efficient, bustling and stunning. The airport train to Central is nothing short of spectacular. The city's infrastructure is better than anywhere in Asia except for Singapore. Telecommunications are among the world's best. The Hong Kong Philharmonic has just hired the prominent conductor Edo de Waart as its artistic director. It is the one place in China where sanctity of contract and rule of law are assured. Things are expected to work and they get done quickly.

Now there are growing signs that despite the pessimists' concerns, Hong Kong will eventually reclaim its role as the most important city in Southeast Asia, provided the local government lets it. That is in part because it is increasingly apparent that Beijing wants Hong Kong to succeed, if for no other reason than to prop up Chief Executive Tung Chee-hwa's disastrous government, and no matter how much Tung's government stumbles. To do that, Hong Kong must integrate further into the Pearl River Delta.

In an apparent attempt to rescue Hong Kong's ailing economy and with it the hapless Mr Tung, China in June pushed through a free-trade agreement to allow goods to pass freely between the special administrative region (SAR) and the mainland without tariffs, and is seeking to cut customs bottlenecks between the two as well. Beijing has also markedly liberalized travel restrictions between the two, allowing substantially more numbers of tourists into the SAR.

One major sign of closer integration is the projected construction of a US$1.9 billion bridge that would skip from Lantau Island, the site of Hong Kong's international airport, across the Pearl River to the gambling mecca of Macau and on to Zhuhai city on the Guangdong province side of the Chinese border. The Hong Kong-Macau-Zhuhai bridge is more than just a span over water. It would play a major role in tying together the 50 million people of the Pearl River Delta into a single vast conurbation with Hong Kong as its capital. Hong Kong has existed apart from China for 150 years, the last five under Chinese rule.

On June 30, Chinese Premier Wen Jiabao came to Hong Kong to sign a Closer Economic Partnership Arrangement (CEPA), a full free-trade agreement that cuts to zero tariffs between the territory and the mainland. The agreement also includes customs cooperation and e-commerce businesses. It is due to go into effect January 1. With no tariffs and with closer customs cooperation, Hong Kong should become far more integrated into China. Indeed, China has dramatically liberalized restrictions on its citizens so that they can visit the SAR.

Wen made his Hong Kong visit the day before massive protests by 500,000 Hong Kong residents that dramatically scuppered proposed new sedition restrictions by the Tung government. At least partly in an apparent attempt to soothe what was obviously an increasingly angry city, Wen said the government is "unswervingly committed" to the policies of "one country, two systems", the agreement between Britain and China that provided for Hong Kong to keep its own political system for 50 years after its 1997 reversion to China.

Wen also said, "In the meantime, we should step up efforts to promote economic cooperation between Hong Kong and the Pearl River Delta in particular." The premier reiterated that the central government would unswervingly commit itself to the policies of "one country, two systems", "Hong Kong people administering Hong Kong" and a high degree of autonomy, and the Basic Law of Hong Kong.

"This is the message I have come to convey," he said, adding that "these set policies of the central government towards Hong Kong will not change".

Certainly, Hong Kong has faced daunting problems over the past five years, including a shockingly bumbling and inept government, the severe acute respiratory syndrome (SARS) epidemic, the three-year collapse of the global financial bubble that devastated its financial industry, and the encroachment by other cities on its role as China's entrepot.

The government exacerbated the territory's economic problems by artificially propping up its overinflated property market in a vain effort to protect a handful of property oligarchs, thus delaying the pain of an inevitable market-clearing, and which has been slowly deflating ever since. The composite cost-of-living index has been falling without a break since 1998 - 54 straight months of deflation. Despite its status as Southeast Asia's financial center, major multinationals have been fleeing for Shanghai and Singapore.

There are now signs of recovery that go beyond the anecdotal evidence of the newly re-energized tai-tais - the well-to-do matrons down from Victoria Peak haughtily fingering luxury goods in Prada and Louis Vuitton and Gucchi in the Pacific Place and Landmark shopping centers. Certainly, the city seems as feisty and pugnacious as ever. It may be the only place in the world that, when SARS hit, could be expected to invent knock-off face masks with Gucchi and Louis Vuitton logos. Its sales clerks and waiters continue to be as disdainful as any in New York or Paris.

Cathay Pacific Airways, Hong Kong's patrician flag carrier, reported that SARS cut its passenger levels by 1.9 million in the first half of 2003, down from 4 million in the same period last year. The airline issued its first-ever profit warning. Passenger revenue fell by 29.5 percent, also partly as a result of uncertainty over the war in Iraq. At one point, total passengers carried fell as low as 5,000 a day. That has since recovered to about 19,000.

Retail sales, which in January had managed to struggle back to 100 (using 1999 as a base of 100), plummeted to 81 in May. But they had climbed back to 86.4 by June. Consumer confidence, which had fallen all the way to 35.8 (using 1999 as a base of 100), had climbed by more than 20 points to 58.7 by June.

"Most post-SARS indicators have been better than expected, and deflation is falling fast," said Eric Fishwick, an economist with Credit Lyonnais Securities Asia (CLSA) in Hong Kong. "We remain optimistic, although weak property prices are a risk." Geoffrey Barker, chief economist for HSBC Securities in Hong Kong, expects 0.5 percent growth for 2003, desperately weak but still growth.

A crucial component of Hong Kong's economy, the financial industry, is starting to show signs of life. JP Morgan Chase, the investment bank, recently released a study showing that the volume of mergers and acquisitions involving Asian companies rose 6 percent in the first half of 2002, to US$106 billion, year-on-year - despite the fact that across the world, M&A activity actually fell by 10 percent.

In addition, Standard Chartered Bank reported this week that across the spectrum of many of its operations, business is improving. Losses due to credit-card debt in Hong Kong improved, to a still-sizable $104 million, down from $138 million in the second half of 2002. Profits in wholesale banking increased, and operating profits in consumer banking rose to $109 million, up from $93 million in the second half of 2002.

Part of what is happening is that the brutal market-clearing in property that should have taken place in 1997 is finally becoming a reality despite attempts by the Tung government to prop them up artificially. Property prices, which briefly in 1997 made the SAR the most expensive city in the world, have fallen by about two-thirds. Hong Kong has now fallen to fourth place, after Tokyo, London and New York. Retail rental prices have fallen in every quarter except three since 1998, which means merchants' sales margins are higher and they can pass some savings on to consumers.

Unlike in Bangkok or Jakarta, the construction cranes have never stopped swinging on the skyline through the long economic decline, which accelerated early this year with the arrival of SARS.Now, the residential property market, the ultimate arbiter of consumer confidence, appears to be on the mend. An estimated 30,000 people viewed new apartments last weekend, the highest number for more than five years.

There is evidence that the office market is bottoming out as well, with Pacific Place available at rents of HK$17-$20 (US$2.18-$2.56) per square foot. To put that into perspective, when Exchange Square came on to the market in the 1980s, IBM did a deal at around HK$17 per square foot, which was seen as a necessary enticement to attract an anchor tenant. The peak rental for A-grade offices was well over HK$100 per square foot.

In the middle of Hong Kong's steamy summer, when tourism is usually at a dead stop, the hotels are filling to the point where a visitor last week who wanted to stay past his reservation period was asked by his hotel to move to another because his room was taken.

Exports, on which Hong Kong lives and dies, are starting pick up as the global economy takes stuttering steps toward revival. Total exports, which fell 3.3 percent in 2001 and rose an anemic 8.7 percent in 2002, averaged a 16.6 percent increase over the first five months of this year. Re-exports, almost exclusively from China, increased by an average of 20 percent over the same period. Imports, which had fallen to minus 2.0 percent in 2001 and rose 7.8 percent in 2002, are up an average of 12.3 percent for the first five months of 2003.

Virtually since it was founded by the British in 1841, Hong Kong has been apart from China and subject more than almost any other city in the world to the vagaries of world trade and commerce. That is beginning to change as it burrows into the side of China. The SAR is still vulnerable. If mainland China and Taiwan were ever to come to an agreement on direct shipping and air links, Hong Kong would take a devastating blow. Nonetheless, over the past decades its residents have been adroit at adapting to new situations, growing out of the manufacture of cheap toys ultimately to multinational finance and service industries. It is seeking to adapt again.

However, if it doesn't, the worry is that it will become, as one observer recently told The Economist magazine, "just another city on the Pearl River".

(Copyright 2003 Asia Times Online Ltd. All rights reserved. Please contact content@atimes.com for information on our sales and syndication policies.)
 
Aug 9, 2003



The Pearl River gets a necklace
(Aug 7, '03)

The trouble with Tung (Jul 15, '03)

CEPA: Finger in a cracking dam?
(Jul 8, '03)

Is Hong Kong irrelevant?
(Nov 28, '03)
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