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    Greater China
     Jan 28, 2006
It's an ill wind for many
By Antoaneta Bezlova

BEIJING - As China celebrates the arrival of the new lunar year - the most important festival on the Chinese calendar - in Beijing and other glitzy urban showcases of the country's economic miracle there is a growing sense of cultural identity loss.

Despite the air of excitement and festive decorations that enliven the dreary winter scene, many are mourning the disappearance of the distinctive folk culture and popular religion that once defined Beijing as a religious center as unique as Rome - a loss ironically aided by the very same free market forces that have propelled



China's economic success.

"We are a lost society," lamented literary critic Zhang Ning. "All that is left is a mere consumerist culture."

The Chinese lunar new year dates from 2600 BC, when Emperor Huang Ti introduced the first cycle of the zodiac. In 2006 it coincides with the lunar year 4703-4704, with the Year of the Dog starting on January 29.

After 25 years of headlong "marketization" and material progress, China's money culture has all but obliterated the significance of many traditions - like the sumptuous new year banquet, the worship of Taoist and Buddhist deities and gods or the traditional New Year's gifts of money to children.

"Today, every day of our life is like a festival, every day we can sit to yet another banquet," Zhang said. "As for the temple fairs - without the traditional worshipping ceremonies of ancestors and gods what is there to enjoy? - it is all commercial entertainment and consumption."

In the old days, every day of the lunar calendar had some kind of significance marked by a ritual, festival or fair in one part or another of Beijing. The so-called "three thousand rules of behavior" governed everything and most people lived in large households.

The Chinese New Year, which marks the arrival of spring according to the lunar calendar, is traditionally the most uplifting occasion for a grand family celebration.

At midnight on Chinese New Year, it was the custom for all family members to line up and "kowtow" (prostrate themselves) before the master and mistress of the house. Then, during the Hour of the Tiger, between 3am and 5am, the household performed the triple rites in honor of Heaven and Earth and ancestors.

After a 24-hour fast, interrupted by a vegetarian meal, the household sat down to a grand new year banquet where each dish had special meaning and was symbolic of what was wished for in the year to come.

Thus jiaozi (rice dumpling), which is homonymous with the ancient word for money, represents good fortune and heavenly blessings. The pudding cake, nian gao, stands for a lucky new year, while fried rice symbolizes harmony and plenty.

Nowadays, however, the laborious preparation of the myriad dishes has been abandoned by modern urbanities with little time to partake in tradition. For those who pride themselves as trendsetters, and have the means, the elaborate dinner now takes place in a restaurant and even in a five-star hotel.

This year, for instance, the Hilton Beijing has been promoted as the best place in town to have the yu sheng dish, the fishy treat, which symbolizes overflowing prosperity because the word for fish sounds like the word for surplus. The Eight Treasures Pudding - a sweet dish made of glutinous rice, nuts and dried fruit, selected for their colors resembling different jewels - is best had at the swanky Din Tai Fung, a chic restaurant in Beijing.

"I don't mind the tradition and I want to celebrate but all those days of shopping, washing and cooking before the festival are out of the question," said Amy Tang, who works for a foreign real estate agency in Beijing. On the new year's eve she and her boyfriend are dining at the Made in China restaurant in the Grand Hyatt. "The place has a show kitchen and we can watch all the preparations," she said.

For young Chinese people, who live in the new money culture, the price of such a dinner that could well surpass an urban worker's monthly salary of 1,200 yuan (US$150) is hardly a deterrent.

Many believe that China's money culture has spawned more vicious departures from tradition such as in the ritual of giving children yasuiqian, or red envelopes, containing money.

"In the old days giving yasuiqian was meant to protect children from evil spirits," said Liu Kuili from the China Folk Customs Society. "But nowadays children look upon it as means of hoarding money."

An online survey this month completed by Sohu, one of China's premier Internet portals, revealed that expectations for yasuiqian had risen dramatically. Some 51.7% of those surveyed in Beijing said they were going to give their children more than 1,000 yuan as a money gift during the lunar festival.

Materialistic drive and conspicuous consumerism might well be blamed for many of these changes, but the destruction of traditional Chinese culture in all its medieval color started much earlier under the onslaught of ideology.

Beijing's rich culture had only just begun to be investigated in the 1920s when the nationalists (Kuomintang) and then the communists began a systematic attempt to destroy it. The nationalists, who like the communists, started off as followers of Vladimir Lenin, sharing the belief that to modernize China, the nation's treasury of accumulated traditions and beliefs had to be discarded.

The destruction intensified during the 1950s and peaked during the Cultural Revolution (1966-1969) when the Communist Party demolished religious sites and outlawed traditional folk customs. Everything "old" - from marriages to funerals, from folk medicine to folk music, was targeted.

In the old days, a genuine folk tradition during the spring festival celebrations would be to visit a temple fair. People would enjoy performances by strolling players, storytellers, acrobats and qigong, strongmen who would heave a sledgehammer on a stone slab laid across the chest of another.

Children, dressed up in red clothes to ward off evil spirits, bought gaily painted wind wheels or figurines made of painted dough, and modelled on legendary characters. In the temple precincts, stalls sold toffee crab apples, steaming broths, spicy noodles, grilled lamb skewers and bean porridge.

"Those fairs were spectacular, far too busy and colorful for anyone to hope to take everything in. Just entering the temple compound was like stepping into a fairyland," wrote Chinese journalist Xiao Qian in his autobiography Traveller Without a Map.

With thousands of more than 1,500-year-old temples and shrines, Beijing had grown into one of China's great religious centers.

In a landmark study "Peking Temples and City life 1400-1900", American scholar-professor, Susan Naquin, identified 2,500 religious sites in the city. She concluded that by the 1980s, Beijing's great religious architectural legacy was barely apparent. No temple fairs were held for some 30 years of hardline communism.

After 1979, when Deng Xiaoping launched its market reforms, the Communist Party cautiously allowed a revival of some old Beijing traditions.

In 1985, thousands flocked to the Great Bell Temple when it held its first temple fair in more than three decades. Yet with success and wealth promoted as the new secular religion of modern China, the censored displays of religious worship and folk religion have lost their allure for many.

"In the past 20 years there has been a cultural revival indeed," said Wang Xuetao, a researcher with the Literature Institute under the Chinese Academy of Social Sciences. "Regrettably, this so-called renaissance is driven not by genuine respect for our cultural heritage but by mercantilism. There is money and profit to be made during these temple fairs, and this has become their focus."
(Inter Press Service)


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