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    Greater China
     Apr 10, 2008
Why Beijing just can't grasp Tibet
By Pallavi Aiyar

BEIJING - Over the past three decades, the Chinese leadership has proven remarkably responsive to changing circumstances. The ruling Chinese Communist Party (CCP) has displayed a pragmatism and flexibility that has allowed it to retain power, even as the Iron Curtain of the former Soviet Union was torn down along large parts of China's borders.

Yet while the CCP has shown itself to be adept at identifying and addressing a range of problems - from the need to pursue vigorous economic reforms to the need to ensure balanced growth between rural and urban areas - Tibet remains its Achilles' heel.

After almost 20 years of a relatively quiescent Tibet, the recent protests across the Tibetan parts of China have caught Beijing off-guard. Following the riots of the 1980s, the CCP's strategy towards Tibet has been one of dealing with dissent harshly while


 

simultaneously developing the region economically. The hope is that rising prosperity will bind the restive region closer to the center and convince Tibetans that it is the party, rather than the Dalai Lama, that can ensure a better life for them.

The opening of the Beijing-Lhasa railway is but one high-profile example of this approach. The railway is also evidence of the confidence Beijing felt for the success of its measures. Gradually, the Tibet Autonomous Region has been opened up to tourism, and temples that were once hotbeds of dissident have been allowed to resume activity.

The events of the past few weeks, however, demonstrate that Chinese authorities have failed to read the pulse of the Tibetan people accurately. This failure boils down to an inability to grasp a society in which the spiritual is prioritized over the material.

No matter how much the Dalai Lama is projected domestically as a sinister "splittist", the average Tibetan still believes the spiritual leader is a living Buddha; a belief which cannot be bought off by subsidies and trains. The Tibet issue is therefore not one of "independence", as it is commonly framed, but of the freedom to believe and worship. In Tibet such freedom is equivalent to worshipping the Dalai Lama.

There is a visceral religiosity in Tibet, evidenced by the fluttering prayer flags attached to every conceivable grounded object, the smell of incense and yak butter lamps in the air and the crush of prayer wheel-whirling pilgrims who circle Lhasa's temples at any given time of the day. Moreover, this religiosity sets Tibet apart from the rest of startlingly secular China.

Even before the communist accession of 1949, after which religious worship was attacked as a feudal superstition, religion in Han China was of a different texture than that in Tibet. Confucianism and legalist philosophies shaped the dominant modes of Chinese thinking and these were rarely concerned with the metaphysical or divine, being firmly grounded in matters of the here and now.

Buddhism, which was introduced to China from India around the first century AD, was the exception to this traditional Chinese emphasis on the practical rather than spiritual but was never able to achieve clear supremacy of place within the Chinese belief structure.

In any event, China's multi-layered philosophical and religious history was abruptly rent apart during the Cultural Revolution (1966-76) when, following Mao Zedong's diktats, temples and places of worship across the country were attacked, and monks publicly paraded in the street and flogged. It was communist ideology rather than religion that people were taught and expected to believe in.

In the post-reform period much has changed. In many ways the new religion worships in banks and ATM machines. But while money-worship may have replaced ideological fervor for the most part, a genuine religious renaissance is also taking place and with the consent of the CCP. Although officially atheist itself, the party has transformed from a revolutionary to a status-quo power and sees the usefulness of traditional philosophies like Confucianism and Buddhism with their emphasis on harmony and order.

Although religious freedoms in China are growing, Beijing continues to set strict parameters within which this "freedom" can be practiced. Heads of temples, mosques and churches are handpicked by the CCP. All places of worship must be registered with the government. Moreover, freedom of religion is allowed only as long as the believers continue to accept the politburo rather than a religious leader as their supreme authority.

Catholics, for whom the pope elicits a devotion that is beyond the control of the leadership, are subject to tight controls and ties between Beijing and the Vatican had been severed since 1951. "House church" Protestantism which involves informal gatherings by believers in private homes or other places outside authorized churches is vulnerable to crackdowns.

Followers of religions other than the five which are officially recognized - Buddhism, Islam, Taoism, Protestantism and Chinese Catholicism - are viewed with suspicion.

"I find it difficult to tell even my friends that I'm a vegetarian because in their eyes that would make me unorthodox and therefore suspect," said one Chinese member of the Radha-Saomi spiritual group in north India.

In the CCP's refusal to allow religious devotion unless it remains subservient to the party lies the real nature of the Tibet issue and the undiminished belief of Tibetans in the Dalai Lama.

In the summer of 2006, I visited Lhasa as part of a journalistic contingent aboard the first Beijing-Lhasa train. Everywhere I went in the city ripples of excitement seemed to spread simply by virtue of my Indian nationality. Roadside sellers of bric-a-brac, monks in the Potala Palace, itinerant city guides, aged pilgrims: what this motley assortment of Lhasa residents had in common was the desire to talk to me about the Dalai Lama.

Eyes brimming with curiosity, they asked, "Had I been to Dharamsala?", where the Dalai Lama's government in exile is based in India. "Had I met his holiness?" Many showed me pictures they carried of the exiled leader, even though possession of such icons is banned by Beijing.

What became clear was that religious freedom in Tibet, in the absence of the freedom to believe in the Dalai Lama, is meaningless. For the hundreds of monks in Tibet denouncing the Dalai Lama, their living Buddha, is a compulsory daily routine. The CCP has inserted itself into Tibetan religious rituals in other ways as well. Beijing recently announced that the party has the sole authority to approve reincarnations - the divine process by which a "living Buddha" is chosen in boyhood. In a speech last year, Zhang Qingli, the party secretary of the Tibetan Autonomous Region, went so far as to say that "The central party committee is the real Buddha for Tibetans".

The fierce anger that such blasphemy is bound to evoke in the heart of believers does not seem to be grasped by Beijing.

In India, the mere slaughter of a cow has been known to provoke riots where hundreds have been left dead. The publication of a few cartoons depicting the Prophet Mohammed has caused violent protests around the world. Many feel the constant vilification and forced criticisms of the spiritual leader of the Tibetans should be seen in this context.

Beijing's strategy for dealing with the Tibet "issue" is to wait for the Dalai Lama's passing in the belief that in his absence Tibetans will be more inclined to focus on the material prosperity Chinese rule promises and less concerned with devotion to a god-king who can offer them little in tangible returns.

There is little to indicate that this will be the case. "We [Tibetans] will never be bought. Our souls are not for sale," says one Tibetan resident of Beijing.

The manner in which Tibetans have reacted to Beijing's overtures over the past three decades suggests that a recognition of Tibetan spirituality is needed, rather than Beijing's attempts to change or suppress it.

Pallavi Aiyar is the author of the forthcoming book, Smoke and Mirrors: China Through Indian Eyes, Harper Collins (India), May 2008.

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