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    China Business
     Nov 9, 2005

US-China textile breakthrough
By David M Lenard

Editor's note: this article was written just before the final announcement of the US-China textile deal. At the official press conference in London announcing the agreement, US Trade Representative Rob Portman said: "This textile agreement is an example of how the US and China have the ability to resolve tough trade disputes that benefit both countries." Chinese Commerce Minister Bo Xilai commented that US "flexibility" in negotiation had contributed to the successful conclusion. "This textile issue between China and the United States has been [very] difficult over the past few years," he said, adding, "We do not expect that this single achievement can help solve all the conflicts or problems between us."

HUA HIN, Thailand - After several months of difficult negotiations, including at least five separate meetings between US and Chinese officials, it appears that a comprehensive US-China textile trade deal may be at hand. The proposed arrangement would govern 



China's massive textile exports to the US for the next three years. Indications that the meetings were nearing a successful conclusion have been steadily increasing for the past few days. US newspapers reported over the weekend that US trade representative Rob Portman would conclude a textile deal with Chinese Commerce Minister Bo Xilai during world trade negotiations taking place in Geneva this week.

On November 7, Reuters quoted Carolyn Hern, a spokeswoman for US Representative Robin Hayes of North Carolina, as saying that Portman and Bo would sign the pact on Tuesday morning in London.

Meanwhile, industry groups on both sides expressed optimism that an agreement would be signed soon. Cass Johnson, president of the US-based National Association of Textile Organizations, said: "There are still some outstanding issues, but I think they'll be cleared up." And the BBC cited Sun Huabin of the China National Textile and Apparel Council as also confirming an imminent deal.

At the same time, as of this writing, US officials cautioned that the final details had not been ironed out. "Nothing is agreed until everything is agreed," said trade spokeswoman Christin Baker. And Neena Moorjani, a spokeswoman for Portman, told Agence France-Presse: "Our teams continue to work through remaining issues ... we still have some outstanding issues, but we are hopeful those areas can be resolved."

The specifics
The purported agreement dealt with 34 different categories of textile goods, dividing the 34 into two broad groups, with significantly different arrangements concluded for each. One group, which included the 14 largest and most "sensitive" categories (sensitive largely because the quantity of imports in those categories drastically increased this year), consisted of items such as pants, shirts, knitwear, underwear and bras. It is believed that shipments from this category will be limited to a 5.5% increase in 2006, 7.8% in 2007 and 10.3% in 2008. Within the second group, with 20 other categories, China was allowed more generous increases of 10-12% in 2006, 12-15% in 2007, and 16% in 2008.

Prior to the agreement, China was limited to 7.5% annual increases for most of these categories, in line with World Trade Organization (WTO) safeguard clauses which permit member states to limit import growth in particular categories of goods when certain thresholds are exceeded. With numbers such as 10.3% in the agreement, it appears that China was granted substantial concessions over the existing safeguard quantity of 7.5%.

But a closer analysis of the numbers shows that this is misleading. It must be remembered that the percentage increases are cumulative - like compound interest - so the earlier years have a greater effect on the end result than later years.

Seen in this light, the modest 5.5% increase for 2006 becomes highly significant. If one actually calculates the projected quantity increases using the published numbers, and taking 2005=100 as a baseline, it turns out that in the first category of goods, which are the most sensitive, China was allowed increases in 2006 that are actually lower than if no agreement had been reached (see chart below).

In 2007, with the higher increase, the amount ends up being almost the same compared to the status quo ante. And in 2008, there is a benefit to Chinese producers from the agreement, but it is small (125.4 versus 124.2 on the relative scale). In the second category, the difference between the situation before and after the purported agreement is much greater, with a substantial benefit to Chinese producers by 2008.

However, recall that China's exports in the second group were less contentious because they increased more slowly than the first group in 2005, implying that China has less of a comparative advantage for the goods in this category. So the higher allowable growth in the second category may be less of a concession than it appears at first sight. (Note: percentage increases for the second category have not been precisely defined; the chart assumes that the actual increases will be in the middle of the range that has been reported, so a 10-12% range was taken as 11%, for example.)



























Even for the first category of goods, the higher percentage increases granted to China will eventually become very significant, just as a bank account paying 5% interest will eventually contain much more money than an account paying 4.5% interest, even if the 4.5% account initially holds more cash. But the resulting increases will not have significant magnitude until after 2008 - when the next US presidential election will be held. Bearing in mind that many swing states in the US south have a large textile industry, readers may judge for themselves the reason for this detail, just as they may logically infer why the Chinese media will not be including the chart above in their accounts of the upcoming agreement.

The background of the dispute
The squabble over textiles dates back to January 1 of this year, when the expiration of the Multi-Fiber Agreement opened the global textile market to the most competitive producing country - China. Vast increases in import quantities for particular goods quickly followed; Chinese imports of socks to the US, for example, increased from fewer than 12 million a year four years ago to a staggering 700 million pairs (five Chinese socks for every man, woman, and child in the US) in the first eight months of 2005 alone. Jeans, underwear and various other items saw increases of a similar magnitude.

On May 18, the Bush administration used the WTO safeguard measures and slapped a 7.5% annual limit on increases of the most rapidly increasing categories, which went into effect on May 23. China immediately protested, and several rounds of negotiations followed: the first in mid-June, the next in early July, then two more meetings in August, and another in late September. The meeting in mid-August, in San Francisco, was said to have produced "progress", but no deal emerged, either then, or in the next meeting, held in Beijing, which concluded September 1.

The next meeting, in Washington September 28, made progress and was even extended in hopes of concluding a deal, but the negotiations stalled largely in the question of the year of expiry. China wanted the agreement to expire in 2007, like its recently concluded pact with the European Union over almost exactly the same issue (see Agreement ends EU-China 'bra wars' , Asia Times Online, September 7 ). The US was holding out for 2008. Although there were also disagreements on the percentage increases, it does appear that the US got its way on the expiry year issue, at least, assuming the proposed agreement is finalized.

Why now?
US-China relations have been rocky over the past several months, due to a variety of issues ranging from currency valuations to intellectual property, oil deals, Iraq, and the perennial issues of human rights, democracy and the status of Taiwan. But stabilizing the relationship remains extremely important to both sides on both economic and political levels, so the apparent resolution of the textile spat will doubtlessly be welcomed in both Washington and Beijing. It has been widely speculated, too, that the consummation of a deal on textiles would smooth the way for President George W Bush's visit to Beijing, scheduled for November 19.

Winners and losers
As is usual in trade disputes, the agreement will produce two sets of winners and two sets of losers. The two winners, in this case, are Chinese textile vendors, who stand to gain from increased business and the greater predictability allowed by an agreed-upon quota regime, and US consumers and retailers, who will enjoy expanded access to cheap Chinese clothes (although in both cases, due to the very modest changes permitted by the deal, the benefits will be felt slowly).

A major part of the benefit to retailers was a removal of the uncertainty surrounding the trade, not price reductions. As vice chairman of the Hong Kong Textile Council Willy Lin told the New York Times, without any formal textile agreement, "There would be a lot of uncertainty in the business environment."

On the losing side of the ledger are China's overseas competitors, who will have to face the continuing erosion of their US market share in the face of Chinese dominance. In addition, of course, employment will continue falling in the US textile industry - there will be no interruption of this decades-long trend.

For US textiliers, reversing the tide of Chinese clothes was not even on the table; the most they had hoped for was holding the line at the 7.5% annual safeguard increase. In reality, even if they had succeeded, the writing was already on the wall for them. Job numbers in the sector have already fallen by more than half from 1990 to 2002, although not all of that decrease was attributable to competition from imports (part was due to technological improvements).

In spite of this, union representatives complained sharply about the apparent agreement. Bruce S Raynor, general president of the textile workers' union Unite Here, depicted the proposal as "unnecessarily generous to the Chinese", adding, "this agreement will cost tens of thousands of jobs in the United States and in Central America, and it gives us nothing in return."

Who got the better of the deal?
It is clear that China gave way on the question of expiration date, meaning the US was able to restrict Chinese imports for a longer time than the EU (2008 versus 2007). At the same time, the US acceded to higher percentage increases than the 7.5% it would have allowed in the absence of an agreement.

However, as discussed previously, due to the lower 2006 increase in the most sensitive category, the benefits to China from this concession will not really be felt for another three years - when China will have to deal with a new presidential administration, which may well assign a lower priority to trade liberalization than the Bush administration has.

On the other hand, Chinese firms may respond to the freer environment for the "less sensitive" categories of goods by shifting production to those goods, enabling them to sidestep one of the most important negative aspects (to them) of the proposed agreement. Furthermore, there are many additional categories of textiles - covering almost half the total trade volume - which are not covered by the agreement at all; Chinese producers may well boost output in these areas.

In addition, interestingly, the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), a US textile industry group, said that under the new agreement, the US industry would keep the right to demand safeguards on categories of Chinese imports not specifically covered by the agreement. If true, this would be a major concession by China.

Conclusion
Ever since China and the EU settled their similar dispute in mid-June, industry observers have expected a similar deal between the US and China, so the apparent agreement that has emerged came as no surprise. It should not be a surprise, either, if a dispassionate analysis of the terms of the deal shows that it seems to favor the US: China's negotiating power in the textile arena is fundamentally weaker than America's.

The reason for this is simple: the textile industry has far more political and economic importance in China, where it is a major source of urban employment, than in the US, where it is basically a sunset industry that is only important in a few states.

If China had refused to compromise on the year-of-expiry issue, for example, the US could have easily walked away, continued the 7.5% increase safeguards, and US consumers would scarcely have known the difference: it would literally have been a question of paying US$1.19 for a pair of socks made in Guatemala rather than $1.09 for a similar pair made in China, and even that trivial inconvenience would have ended after a few years.

Of course it is true that inexpensive Chinese goods have contributed significantly to keeping corporate profits high and inflation low in the US, but the contribution that textiles have made to this phenomenon has been exaggerated, especially when one considers that essentially every textile product China makes could easily be made elsewhere, albeit at a slightly higher cost on average.

Still, the deal will benefit Chinese vendors and US consumers, and it could have another effect that is arguably much more significant: it could set a precedent for the pragmatic, peaceful settlement of US-China disputes. One hopes that the pattern will hold in other areas more contentious than textiles.

David M Lenard is a correspondent for Asia Times Online based in Thailand.

(Copyright 2005 Asia Times Online Ltd. All rights reserved. Please contact us for information on sales, syndication and republishing.)


Textile dealers wary as export fair opens (Oct 18, '05)

Textile industry laments failed Sino-US talks (Oct 1, '05)

Bra wars rage on as US-China talks stall (Sep 2, '05)

Set Chinese bras free: Mandelson to EU (Aug 31, '05)

US, China make progress in textile talks (Aug 20, '05)

Keep your (made-in-China) shirt on (May 27, '05)

Chinese textile industry fumes (May 20, '05)


 
 



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