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Cops and cars,
topless bars






LOS ANGELES - Cruising the Pacific Coast Highway in a convertible, top down, a warm breeze blowing, listening to the Beach Boys on 95.5 KLOS ("the legendary"), one may have waves of reasons to believe that the California Dream will never die.

Los Angeles is still the key node of the sixth-largest economy in the world - California is only behind the United States, Japan, Germany, Britain and France. If LA county (with a population of 10 million) were a country, it would still be the 16th-largest economy in the world, ahead of Russia.

It's not only the exuberance of the intellectual capital available that is overwhelming - constantly creating software extravaganzas or the latest from biotech to nanotech. It's the explosive, ostentatious wealth. Malibu beach houses, hordes of Aston Martin convertibles, galaxies of boutique hotels and restaurants, dazzling Laurel Canyon glitzy parties, the serpent of red and white lights on the freeways, caravans of deluxe customized Hummers (the wet dream of US Marines deployed in the Muslim world), millions of perfectly toned bodies, which can afford to go holistic instead of ballistic. Compared to Gaza, Fallujah and Kandahar, this is outer space.

Still, the grid is not so remote from the succession of "cops and cars, topless bars" immortalized by The Doors. The epitome of cool and the epitome of trash, junk and gore coexist in California. In the world's most unequal industrialized economy, California is one of its most unequal states. Driving from ultra-affluent Santa Monica, via the quintessential Sunset Boulevard, toward downtown LA, especially at night, one swings from the California Dream to post-Terminator no-man's-land, with side excursions to mini-Asias (China town, Japan town, Korea town and Thai town).

California does not have a race problem - even though some WASPS (white Anglo-Saxon Protestants) may fear Mexifornia (in 2040 the population is expected to be 48% Latino and 31% WASP). But it definitely has an education problem (not to mention an energy problem and a transportation problem). Just under 45% of students in California's public schools are Latino (a staggering 70% in Los Angeles). They may be learning English, but are they learning enough skills to get something better from life than mere day-labor jobs?

WASP students go to private schools or schools in safe, small suburban districts. There are not enough public schools in California to educate a majority of Latino kids - although LA, for instance, always finds torrents of dollars when it comes to building the spectacular Frank Gehry-designed Disney Concert Hall or the Staples Center. California ranks as the 30th American state in terms of per capita spending on education.

California's comparative economic advantage has everything to do with networks, crucial nodes and enterprising spirit. LA business is not only Hollywood and aerospace, it's also jewelry, furniture, carpets, toys and, of course, pornography (in San Fernando Valley). All Japanese car multinationals have their creative headquarters in southern California.

Suburbia rules
If southern California is the empire of suburbia, the inland empire - the suburban sprawl in Riverside and San Bernardino counties - is its new key hub. About 660,000 of these 3.6 million inlanders (and counting) arrived in the 1990s - and 550,000 are Latino (talk about integration). Here, the California dream is ubiquitous - manifested by the detached suburban home with attached flotilla of sport utility vehicles (SUVs). Nine out of 10 Californians reportedly want to live in a single-family detached home. In Victorville - sort of the heart of the inland empire - these houses are affordable. In Orange County they're not. According to Steve Pon Tell, an inland empire specialist, the first imperial rule of attraction is its multimodality. We're talking about an integrated circuit, where if you're willing to spend most of your life on the freeway you're able to move anywhere. This is supposedly what freedom is all about.

It may never rain in California, as the pop cliche goes, but chic movie-star hangout Palm Springs is sprinkled with mini-nozzles. Roman Polanski's Chinatown, written by Angeleno Robert Towne, was a fabulous movie about who controls LA water. Today, 80% of California's water is used for agriculture - but agriculture represents only 2% of California's economy. Talk about government inefficiency.

Recently, Californians were bombarded with the public relations campaign for the new Disney attraction - the Twilight Zone Tower of Terror. No irony intended, of course. It's a national sport to dismiss Californians as apolitical - or as a wacky bunch of voters. But attitudes are changing. Surfers in Topanga Canyon may now mock "CNN bubbleheads". Or take this Jewish-American family in Beverly Hills, who impeccably voted Republican all their lives. They may not be exactly familiar with the fine print of the Patriot Act. But now they say "it looks like we're living in the former Soviet Union. There's total infringement on our civil liberties." They'll vote Democrat in November.

Ah-nuld
And then there's governor Arnold Schwarzenegger - or Ah-nuld, Arnold Inc, Conan The Governor, The Deregulator, the Gubernator, the Ubermensch or The Terminator, as he is variously known from LA to the Bay Area and from San Diego to the inland empire. From an anthropological point of view, Ah-nuld is the ultimate model to understand what makes post-everything America tick.

Ah-nuld shot to the heights of political power as in a movie plot, on a mission maybe not from god - like the Blues Brothers or George W Bush and John Ashcroft - but a sacred mission nonetheless: to rescue California's economy from the evil forces of corruption and to restore the California Dream to its righteous citizens. He set out to prove that the sixth-largest economy in the world - where the most advanced technology coexists with appalling infrastructure - is actually manageable.

Ah-nuld used one of California's famed propositions - number 57 in this case - to borrow US$15 billion to cover some of its budget deficit, currently running at $1 billion a month. He coupled the move with another proposition requiring the California legislature to come up every year with balanced budgets.

He must be doing something right. Last May, Moody's raised California's debt rating from BBB to A3. It's still the worst among the 50 states - but at least this is the first time California gets a decent grade in four years. The economy is expected to grow by 4% in 2004.

Trojan lessons Brad Pitt didn't learn
Ah-nuld is a tautological universe: he always elicits a horde of clones of Ah-nuld (much more than Bush breeds Bush clones). When he goes on blitz mode, he blurs all borders between Hollywood, business, special effects, the me ethos, self-help, super-fitness, perfect health and politics. Michael Blitz and Louise Krasniewicz, authors of the delightful Why Arnold Matters (Basic Books, 2004), go as far as saying that "Arnold Schwarzenegger defines the essence of the American Dream in a time when Americans have had to recognize the vulnerability and near impossibility of that dream."

In this true revolution in cultural politics, Ah-nulds's target is to make the world over in Ah-nuld's image. Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi tries the same thing in Italy, but he only travels with subtitles. The essence of Ah-nuld the politician is always a monstrous public relations exercise to the benefit of Ah-nuld. But the process has been so effective that he has managed to morph Ah-nuld into California itself.

Ah-nuld is a program that can be run anywhere, but he may be the ultimate Trojan Horse: a program disguised as a harmless application which is able to infiltrate and destroy a computer's hardware, software or both. He may already be doing so to the American political-cultural grid - and soon no one will be complaining about it.

No wonder Ah-nuld conducted his whole campaign in 2003 in malls. Malls and theme parks are so successful because they represent an extremely regulated vision of happiness and well-being. They are the perfect image for democratic participation in a not-too-politicized republic. Ah-nuld's "Disneylandization" of American politics is a complex process involving carefully controlled maximum simplification, scaling down, cleansing, elimination of any kind of disorder, creation of an atmosphere of harmony, guided behavior and total mass control. Karl Rove Machiavellians and brutal neo-cons in the Bush administration would have everything to learn from Ah-nuld's tactics.

But what does it mean for Republicans?
California Republicans (Richard Nixon, Ronald Reagan) usually have the ability to morph into Terminators for the party nationally: after all, they carry a state of 35 million people with 54 electoral votes.

Ah-nuld is a classic, not hardcore, conservative. His priorities are paying the bills, balancing the budget and cutting off costs mercilessly to achieve it (the poor and the needy be damned). But he is also pro-choice; he worries about the environment (even promising to convert one of his Hummers to natural gas and hydrogen); and he's deeply influenced by wife Maria Shriver of the Kennedy clan.

Kerry the Yankee should not take California for granted next November. Iraq has made Bush lose an avalanche of votes in California, according to the latest polls. Nixon won over John F Kennedy in California in 1960. Bill Clinton and AL Gore won by landslides in the 1990s. In the 2003 Ah-nuld gubernatorial triumph, he was shattered in the Bay Area and lost in Central LA, but he won by huge margins in the southern California suburbs and in the Central Valley.

This does not mean that an Ah-nuld victory in 2003 will translate into a Bush win in 2004. But southern California may still yield a huge surprise. The last northerner to win California was Franklin Roosevelt. The other Democrats who won afterwards came from Missouri (Harry S Truman), Texas (Lyndon Johnson), Arkansas (Clinton) and Tennessee (Gore).

Vast sections of America seem to be redefining democracy in essentially militaristic terms. In a society that is increasingly shallow and extremely materialistic ("a tawdry cheapness/ shall outlast our days", wrote the great Ezra Pound, a native from Idaho), the polls say that at least half of the American population now see the military as the last refuge of democratic values (Abu Ghraib notwithstanding). But Ah-nuld, as usual, has gone one step ahead: he's the only one who knows how to seduce conservative voters with shopping mall democracy.

The future of the republic
Enter the closest California has in terms of a resident sage: Chalmers Johnson, 72, former navy officer and Central Intelligence Agency (CIA) consultant, for years the head of University of California Berkeley's political science department and the Center for Chinese Studies. In 2000, Johnson published the best-selling Blowback, warning that retribution against American imperial policies would be inevitable. His new book, The Sorrows of Empire, is even more devastating, detailing the entrails of the global garrison managed by the Pentagon and the CIA.

In this must-read book, Johnson shows how what could be called a military-petroleum complex turned America into the new Rome - with all the hubris, nepotism, corruption and savagery this implies. Professor Paul Kennedy of Yale had warned in the 1980s about the dangers of imperial overstretch. Johnson enumerates the four greatest dangers: perpetual war (George W Bush, on the record, has called for regime change in 60 countries); the end of the democratic republic; institutionalized disinformation (disseminated by corporate media); and bankruptcy.

Johnson, a lover of Goethe, lives with his wife in beautiful La Jolla, north of San Diego, in a home with a view of the Pacific. He's still astonished at how most students nowadays are "passive and apolitical" and "indifferent to the world": he's talking about young Californians. He's in favor of dismantling the CIA: "Their intelligence on Iraq should have been awarded the 2002 Nobel Prize for literature."

Johnson's view of America's future is gloomy. He does not believe that "the political system is capable of saving the republic": "It is hard to imagine that any president of either party could stand up to the powerful vested interests surrounding the Pentagon and the secret intelligence agencies. Given that 40% of the defense budget is secret and that all of the intelligence agencies' budgets are secret, it is impossible for Congress to do effective oversight of them even if it wanted to." He believes that "if the republic is to be saved it will be as a result of an upsurge of direct democracy".

This is the progressive view. In the real world, California political experts usually joke that in America the political candidate whose life makes the best Hollywood movie always wins. Who could possibly beat Ah-nuld in the future if he and his followers successfully lobby to get a constitutional amendment to allow him to run? Don't underestimate the Trojan Horse. Kahl-eee-fohr-nya may be just a test tube experiment. Direct democracy - of the shopping mall kind - may be next. And then, to crown the ultimate California Dream, he'll be back - as the Presidator.

Also in this series:

The brown vote (Jun 23, '04)
The Spirit of Detroit (Jun 16, '04)
Bush against Bush (Apr 30, '04)
Kerry, the Yankee muchacho (May 7, '04)
You have the right to be misinformed (May 8, '04)
An American tragedy (May 11, '04)
In the heart of Bushland (May 12, '04)
The war of the snuff videos (May 13  '04)
The Iraq gold rush (May 14, '04)
The new beat generation (May 15, '04)
Taliban in Texas: Big Oil hankers for old pals
 (May 18, '04)
Life is a beach. Or is it?
(May 19, '04)
Cuba libre
 (May 21, '04)
Miami vice and virtue (May 22, '04)
Georgia on his mind 
(May 27, '04)
Free at last? (May 28, '04)
Highway 61 revisited  (May 29, '04) 
Now gimme those heartland votes
  (Jun 3, '04)
Nerves of steel  (Jun 4, '04)
A Warhol moment (Jun 5, '04)
Saint Ronnie (Jun 8, '04)
Iraq as the 51st state (Jun 18, '04)

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Jun 25, 2004



California gets its groove back
(Oct 4, '03)

 

 
   
       
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