Korea

PYONGYANG WATCH
Russia or China? Two trains of thought
By Aidan Foster-Carter

Talk of trains, and some folks become all misty-eyed. Or is this trait peculiar to us Brits, for whom "trainspotter" is a synonym for any sad obsession? (Ditto "anorak", after this species' typical garb.) But don't knock it. From such enthusiasm cometh knowledge.

Way back in the 1980s, when the hermit Kimdom was even more terra incognita than today, one such choo-choo buff living in Seoul excitedly showed me a copy of a rare prize indeed: the North Korean railway timetable. Perusing this revealed surprisingly long journey times, suggesting slow speeds on single tracks in dire need of modernization.

Moreover, trainspotting is one of the few ways of getting into North Korea. At least from the UK, the odd group (no offence, chaps) not only visits, but reaches parts no one else does: chugging down remote branch lines in pursuit of steam engines long extinct elsewhere. Such antiquities are worth recalling just now, to prevent over-excitement. Or at least, let excitement be sober (is that a contradiction?) and properly targeted. Two aspects of inter-Korean railways are currently in the news, and they're connected. I mean the items are connected. The railways aren't, which is Item 1.

As we've mentioned before, the latest bout of inter-Korean goodwill, which looks ever more hopeful, includes a timetable for relinking not one but two rail and road corridors across the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). One, known as the Gyeongui (Kyongui) line, begun two years ago but since stalled, starts north of Seoul. The other, the Donghae (Tonghae) line, would run along the east coast, on the opposite side of the peninsula.

North Korea seems keen on this new eastern corridor, despite going slow on the first and more obvious westerly one. The new one won't be quick, as the gap is wide: more than 100 kilometers of new track must be laid. Yet Pyongyang's deputy trade minister, Kim Yong-sul, said at a seminar in Tokyo on September 3 that when done this will make Busan - South Korea's second city and main port - a "logistics stronghold".

Not to be churlish, comrade, but Busan is doing fine already. The world's third-largest container port, it is not only South Korea's gateway but now a transshipment hub for China. Should it also look north? Cue the other big Korean rail story lately: the "iron silk road" beloved of both South Korean President Kim Dae-jung and Russian President Vladimir Putin, a rail freight route linking South Korea to Europe via Siberia - and North Korea. The Russian president pressed the Dear Leader on this when they met in Vladivostok last month. To good effect, evidently?

Well, not exactly. There's a puzzle here. Despite all the hype about hubs - as in "Seoul, Hub of Asia" and similar post-soccer hubris - logistics, like most things, comes down to cold hard cash. Is it really cheaper to rail rather than ship South Korean goods to Europe? And if so, what exactly would the route be?

Here's the puzzle. Busan is in the southeast, so an east-coast linkup to Russia might look logical. But it isn't. Not only is there that big gap to fill in, but the main line doesn't go that way. South Korea's axis runs northwest from Busan to Seoul, whereas the northeast - Gangwon province, where Typhoon Rusa hit heaviest - is a mountain resort area, not that easily accessed from the rest of South Korea.

To link South Korea to Russia properly, you'd start from Seoul. That means rejoining a third line in the middle of the peninsula: the Kyongwon route, which runs northeast to Wonsan on North Korea's east coast. The gap here is not wide: the north's Pyonggang junction (not to be confused with Pyongyang) is 15km north of the DMZ. Before partition in 1945, this was the main route to the industrial northeast.

So why is this not on the agenda? Perhaps it soon will be. According to Voice of Russia radio, the line Putin and North Korean leader Kim Jong-il agreed to upgrade is this one. Er, shouldn't someone be coordinating with South Korea on this? Prediction: If the rail deal is for real, Donghae will be dropped in favor of Kyongwon. But where does that leave the Gyeongui corridor, already built on the southern side? A glance at the map shows this western route is the real main line, running as it does up to Pyongyang and on to China. For that matter, the direct route to Europe is this way too: across Manchuria and into Siberia farther west.

Putin knows this. He spelled it out frankly just before meeting the Dear Leader: "If we don't link it up here ... it will still go ahead - but through the territory of our dearly loved neighbor China" - a touch of sarcasm there, perhaps? - via "a different junction, and parts of Russia's Far East will just not see those freights, that's all." That's why Moscow is so keen on going the long way around by Vladivostok. Putin hopes this project will give Russia's run-down Pacific coastal region a much-needed boost.

Indeed it yet may. But someone has to finance all this: US$3 billion is the latest figure. Moscow hopes Seoul will foot the bill. But if you were South Korea, with every bit of North Korea's infrastructure in need of costly repair, where would you start? The long and winding rail to Vladivostok, or the old royal road to Beijing? Add South Korea's far brisker business ties with China than Russia, and the China line makes more sense every time. So my money is on Seoul's money plumping for "our dearly loved neighbor", and Vladivostok and Khabarovsk missing out - unless Putin puts his own money where his mouth is.

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Sep 10, 2002


PYONGYANG WATCH: North Korean outreach: Are we motoring? (Sep 3, '02)

North Korean, Russian ties firmly on track (Aug 26, '02)

 

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