Korea

PYONGYANG WATCH
One weekend's news

By Aidan Foster-Carter

These days change comes thick and fast out of North Korea. Take Sunday's images alone. The front page of the website of Chosun Ilbo, Seoul's leading conservative daily, features two photographs of young North Korean women. No, not the squad of sexy cheerleaders who've been wowing fans at the Asian Games in Busan; in tech-happy South Korea, drooling websites are sprouting. Still, this is a politically mind-boggling spectacle as well as eye-catching: unimaginable until now.

One picture is of Ham Bong-sil, who on Sunday won the women's marathon to clinch a creditable ninth place overall for North Korea in the Asiad: nine golds, 11 silvers, 12 bronzes. She looks great, hair swept back in the wind. Two logos adorn her vest. A small Democratic People's Republic of Korea (DPRK) flag, still technically illegal in the South: it's been allowed for the games, obviously, but you won't find it on the Asiad website. And below the flag, a much bigger sponsorship ad - for SK Telecom, South Korea's market leader in mobile service.

Excuse me while I pinch myself. No, it's still there. This is what it was like when Samsung and LG ads started popping up in China - airport baggage carts a specialty - way before the People's Republic of China and Republic of Korea (ROK) tied the knot diplomatically. Suddenly, we knew things were going to be different. From zero contact to - well, a semblance of normality. Or at least an inkling of what normality will look like, when it comes.

The other picture is also of North Koreans in the South, and they look pretty happy too. Or relieved. Twenty of them arrived at Seoul's Incheon International Airport on Saturday from Beijing, via Manila. Fifteen were female; several seemed just teenagers. Unlike Ham, and the cheerleaders who on Tuesday were due to sail home from Busan's Tadaepo port on the boat that has been home throughout their trip - some reportedly got seasick - this group are on one-way tickets. For these are the latest batch of North Korean refugees who've managed to reach sanctuary in foreign missions in Beijing. The tacit deal now is that China lets them go, provided awkward publicity is avoided. They are the lucky ones. The other side of the coin is a tough crackdown in the border region, with many deportations each day. But still they keep on coming, and they won't go away. Neither China nor North Korea can stop them.

Two faces of North Korea. Which is real? Both, of course. The challenge is to construct the big picture into which these seemingly contrary images fit. "All reality is contradictory," said Chairman Mao; and I'm with the Great Helmsman on that, if nothing else. The paradoxes continue. Tadaepo, where North Korea's ship Mankyungbong-92 and its comely crew have pitched anchor this past fortnight, in 1983 saw some less friendly Northern visitors come ashore. Three agents were killed and two captured.

More weekend news. If I mention Sinuiju, you'll know to have a large pinch of salt at the ready. What a saga! My last column (Stop fief: Was Sinuiju thought through?, October 2) was skeptical, but little did we know then that the egregious Yang Bin - he of the alleged US$900 million fortune but an unpaid $1.2 million Chinese tax bill, promising all manner of over-the-top vistas for a "free" zone that no one (it turned out) could even get into - would be put under house arrest by China. What a slap in the face for Kim Jong-il from Big Uncle, furious at being out of the loop. No wonder the Dear Leader is heading there next month, right after China's National People's Congress. Besides meeting President Jiang Zemin's expected successor Hu Jintao, there'll be some fence-mending to do.

But that's not all. A separate story this weekend in the Korea Times claims that the post of governor of Sinuiju has now been offered instead to - wait for it - a South Korean. And not any old South Korean, either. Certainly not a dissident or anyone remotely pro-Pyongyang. No, the rumored invitee is none other than Park Tae-joon: a recent ROK prime minister, but more to the point the former chairman of Posco, the world's largest steelmaker. Posco's rise under Park from nowhere to global leader is known to have impressed North Korea, whose own once-proud steel sector is now rusting like everything else.

Could Park take the job? He's said to be thinking seriously about it, but there are one or two problems. He's 75, and only just recovering from a lung operation. Then there's South Korea's absurd National Security Law - absurd, because the whole of Kim Dae-jung's peace process is technically illegal. If not even the Northern flag may fly as a rule, could a South Korean swear an oath of loyalty to the DPRK?

Again, the mind boggles - but the heart leaps. I really hope this story is true. If it is, I really hope Park takes the job. And I really hope no government in Seoul, either this or the next (probably more right-wing) to be elected in December, will be so short-sighted as to stop him. Unlike Yang Bin, Park is a seasoned and successful businessman whose creation has stood the test of time. If anyone can make Sinuiju fly, he can. But above all - recall that this is after all only a rumor - he's a South Korean. Ever wondered what Korean reunification will look like? Like this. It starts here.

And the big picture, the overarching framework into which all this fits? Umm ... still working on that. But one thing's for sure. North Korea is in flux as never before. I doubt Kim Jong-il has a master plan; just look at the Yang Bin fiasco. Hold on to your hats; it promises to be a wild ride. What will be next?

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Oct 15, 2002


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