Korea

PYONGYANG WATCH
North Korea as trashfilm roadshow

By Aidan Foster-Carter

Trying to follow North Korea leads down all kinds of unexpected - and often dodgy - alleyways. Even on the hermit Kimdom, there's a lot of stuff out there. And much of it, in unlikely corners, I fear I miss.

Item: A, well, weird book that plonked through my letterbox recently. It was sent by the editor of a local arts magazine I subscribe to, here in Yorkshire, who vaguely recalled that I have a Korean interest. He had been sent it for review. So if not Yorkshire Arts' cup of tea, one hopes that Asia Times Online will do the trick.

I'd never heard of the publisher, Headpress, which is just down the road in Manchester. By its own account, Headpress deals in all that is underground and "transgressive". Recent books include Slimetime: A Guide to Sleazy, Mindless Movies and I Was Elvis Presley's Bastard Love Child. Not exactly my scene.

But a nice line in titles. Ditto Trashfilm Roadshows: Off the Beaten Track with Subversive Movies, by Johannes Schoenherr. The author's name translates as "lovely guy", which might mislead. An ex-punk who grew up in East Germany - his best ever job, he says, was as a gravedigger in Leipzig - he was expelled to the West in 1983. Ever since, he's made a career as a kind of film guerrilla: seeking out all that is weird and tasteless on celluloid and showing it wherever he can, in Europe, America and Japan.

This is crazy stuff, both on screen and off. Schoenherr certainly takes risks: wrestling with clapped-out cars and projectors - not to mention truculent punters and feminist protesters - to show far-out movies in seedy venues in dubious areas peopled by "schizos", heroin addicts and more. He seems to get off on all this, recounting each alarming episode with jaunty nonchalance - and many an F word. Quite a riot.

But the last and longest chapter is about North Korea. That figures. As in much else, Pyongyang films are - well, different: in a class of their own. Not, of course, the same sort of bizarre as Schoenherr's usual fare. (In his index, Woman Warrior of Koryo comes between Whoregasm and Zombie Hunger.)

So off he goes, just like that. A contact with DPRK (Democratic People's Republic of Korea) diplomats in Berlin who rent the latest Western hits - for the Dear Leader's viewing pleasure, he suspects - gets him invited to the Korea Film Show. This, when he arrives, turns out to be arranged solely for him - plus a young Swiss, Nicolas Righetti, who is making a film about North Korea (while trying to convince his suspicious hosts that he isn't really).

This duo's japes and scrapes in the people's paradise make for a fun read. There are lots of pictures, too. Seeing our hero posing at Mangyongdae, the late Kim Il-sung's sacred birthplace, in black shirt and jeans and chest-length hair, you do wonder if North Korea quite knew what it was letting itself in for.

Mind you, there is cynicism on both sides. Having grown up under communism - he was even a Young Pioneer - Schoenherr has a good nose for what one might call Red bull (and we ain't talking beverages, of which there is much imbibing). Thus he swiftly grasps the pecking order of the various minders, and the kinds of deals each is trying to make to shore up his position. Even in Pyongyang, life's a hustle.

He's perceptive too, if hardly polite, on Kim Jong-il's much vaunted cinematic skills. Thirty years ago the Dear Leader authored On The Art of the Cinema, a 330-page tome whose chapters include such pearls as "Each Scene Must Be Dramatic" and "Make-up Is a Noble Art". As Schoenherr notes, the tales of Kim interfering and changing things are typical movie-mogul stuff - except he began as a "brat" aged seven.

But in a further twist peculiar to "on-the-spot guidance" Pyongyang style, anything ever touched by the Leader's sacred hand goes into a glass case. At the Korean Film Studio, this puts cameras, floodlights, tape recorders and more out of use. As he remarks: "A visit by this guy must have been a nightmare!"

Irreverent he may be, but Schoenherr delivers. His pitch is to show North Korean films in Europe, and he does. To his fury, they won't give him Pulgasari, Pyongyang's very own Godzilla movie; doubtless because its South Korean director, Shin Sang-ok, was kidnapped on Kim Jong-il's orders but later fled.

Still, he ends up with "a whole bunch of over-the-top propaganda pictures and some fairly good action movies", which he shows in Sweden, Germany, and Italy to mixed reviews. Most lack subtitles, so he has to drive to all the venues with a rented digital title machine. He doesn't make any money, surprise.

But he gets his reward: a return invitation to Pyongyang, this time for a real film festival. Again he has adventures, seeing a youth beaten and arrested who "bore a glare of such utter hatred that it brought a chill to the spine". (This from a man usually unfazed by any horrors, filmic or real.) Behind the bland masks of loyalty, North Korea surely has its share of tough kids living beyond the reach of the system.

The book ends like a movie. Trying to lose his guide, our hero runs into none other than his compatriot Dr Norbert Vollertsen: since expelled and now battling for refugee rights, but then (in 2000) still an aid worker in North Korea. Johannes and friends pile into Norb's white jeep, and off they speed - "gangsta rap blaring from the speakers": the mind boggles - all over town, wherever they like. In Pyongyang!

Kind of like riding off into the sunset. Fade to credits. A B-movie of a book, I suppose - but one whose odd angle offers real insights. Some people tut-tut when North Korea is portrayed as Planet Weird. But Johannes Schoenherr is a world expert on the bizarre. If it's weird enough for him, who am I to argue?

Aidan Foster-Carter is honorary senior research fellow in sociology and modern Korea, Leeds University, England.

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Mar 13, 2003



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(Nov 13, '02)

 

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