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PYONGYANG
WATCH
A jolly jaunt through North
Korea
By Aidan
Foster-Carter
As a not very patriotic Brit, one
thing I do feel proud of is the BBC. Compared with other
broadcast media, not least US ones, on the whole the
good old Beeb really does try to tell it like it is, in
depth. It gives all points of view - then leaves you to
make up your own mind. Which is how it should be.
Yet even the BBC can err, or be deceived. If, as
I trust you do, you regularly access its online Asia-Pacific news homepage, you'll
know that in any Korea story there are a lot of sidebars
on the right, giving links to further sites.
Intriguingly, one of these is said to be the "North
Korea Government", no less. It's at http://www.korea-dpr.com.
Hold it. Dot.com? That sounds strangely
capitalistic. Wouldn't the DPRK government use its
official country suffix .kp, conspicuous so far by its
total absence from the web? It's the only nation to
remain a virtual blank in this way. (In my country, KP
is a brand of nut - but I'm sure no slight was
intended.)
Well, the page duly opens with the
DPRK state emblem: a big red star over a hydro-electric
dam and power lines, framed by golden sheaves of grain.
(All highly ironic in an era of blackouts and famine,
no?) It proclaims "Official Page: Democratic People's
Republic of Korea" on a black background (very Goth,
somehow). A red pentagon, morphing into the North Korean
flag when you click it, bids you enter.
It sure
looks like the right place. Next up: Two big photographs
of the Great and Dear Leaders, each waving to the
masses. Yet at least when I accessed it, Kim Il-sung's
pic and caption were a tad blurry. Careful, comrade!
Folks have been sent to the gulag for less: 20 years for
accidentally sitting on a newspaper picture of Kim, for
instance. (Yes, truly. In the final analysis, North
Korea is Not Funny.)
'Twixt father and son, a
bar says Welcome. That leads on to more photos, this
time of Korean unity. Kim Jong-il and former South
Korean president Kim Dae-jung hold hands in Pyongyang,
at the June 2000 summit that got us all so excited
(until we learned it was paid for by a US$500 million
bribe). The other pic is presumably a joint North-South
Korean athletic team, but there is no caption to say
when or where. Between the two pictures, a map of the
peninsula proclaims "Korea Is One!"
Clicking the
map takes you to something a whole lot more specific: an
invitation to "join us in the 'March for the
Reunification of Korea' - July 2004". This is
attributed, copyrighted, even - to a body called the
Korean Friendship Association (KFA) - even though the
next line repeats the claim that this is the "Official
Webpage of the Democratic People's Republic of Korea".
Curiouser and curiouser.
A jolly Flash
presentation - which crashed a couple of times - has an
authentic North Korean feel. But the further details on
the reunification march are by the KFA, in an English
even more peculiar than the DPRK's own. ("The KFA
pretends in this way to approach the reality of North
Korea to the foreign friends and combine a passion for
culture and tourism with a solidarity compromise." Er,
quite so.)
It sounds an intriguing trip, and at
1,320 euros ($1,627) for 12 days (less for KFA members)
not badly priced - although flights are extra. But not
everyone is welcome. US and South Korean citizens need
not apply, except that "two exceptional visas may be
awarded to US citizens that demonstrate their work
towards the friendship with the DPR of Korea and the
reunification". The application ("pre-inscription") form
has a compulsory box to confess whether you are or are
not a journalist, and also requires a declaration "that
that [sic] I am honest and sincere ... and that my
intentions and ... my stated job/occupation is correct".
Evidently you can't be too vigilant lest the
enemy sneaks in under false pretenses. They even warn
that "any participant that won't follow the regulations
of the DPRK will be treated accordingly [sic] to its
national law. (From expulsion to jail terms)." Come to
North Korea, and experience the gulag! A better bet:
"Offer an special gift from your country, company or
organization to the Leaders." This wins you "a personal
meeting with a representative of the DPRK Government".
(Not the police, presumably.)
Those who pass the
honesty and sincerity tests get the chance to do what,
deep inside, you've been waiting all your life to do.
Yup, this is your chance to march the entire length of
North Korea! From Mount Paekdu to Panmunjom! It sounds
pretty strenuous - but just in case this long march
leaves you craving yet more exercise, it's all been laid
on. For along the way, you'll be "participating in the
daily life of the Korean people (helping in
construction, farming, etc ...) and organizing joint
traditional games and competitions (pull the rope,
swimming ...) by passing through [sic]".
This
all climaxes at the Demilitarized Zone, "face to face
with the South Korean and US soldiers. We'll read
statements for the end of the division of the Korean
peninsula and the expulsion of the American troops." You
tell 'em!
Sadly, I won't be going along.
Something tells me I might not pass the test, even (or
especially) if I fill out the form with full disclosure.
But you, dear reader, should go. Seriously. This sounds
a unique trip, as the Korean Friendship Association
claims. Go see for yourself. Don't fancy all that work
and play? Don't worry: they don't really mean it. Like
much in North Korea, it's just for show. The small print
adds: "All sport competitions are optional, and the
volunteer work will be assigned according to the desire
of each participant." Phew. (But as you opt out,
remember that for North Koreans, optionality is not an
option. That's an order.)
Still, who exactly are
mine hosts here? Plainly, despite the website's earlier
claims, the KFA is not the DPRK. Lest there be any
doubt, just read the "Disclaimer Note": "The KFA doesn't
take responsibility for any personal, material damage or
other problem related to this trip, but just offers this
service as a consultant organization between the DPRK
authorities and the 'participant'." What's more, it's up
to you to arrange your own insurance. You're on your
own, comrade. It's called juche. Bon voyage!
Yet who is korea-dpr.com really, if not - sorry,
BBC - the North Korean government? Stay tuned ...
Aidan Foster-Carter is honorary senior
research fellow in sociology and modern Korea, Leeds
University, England.
(Copyright 2003 Asia
Times Online Co, Ltd. All rights reserved. Please
contact content@atimes.com for
information on our sales and syndication policies.)
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