Middle East

LEBANON NOTEBOOK
A lesson to be learned
By Paul Belden

BEIRUT - Fares Soueid had already spent some time discussing the advantages to Lebanon of being one of the most digitally advanced countries in the Middle East, but when he dropped his normally calm, measured demeanor to insist in a raised voice that "Lebanon is not an email address", I knew he wasn't talking about the Internet. What he was talking about was nationalism. Or, if you prefer, patriotism.

"Lebanon is a not a means, it is not a channel," he said, "for America to send messages to Syria, and for Syria to send messages to America. We are not an email address. We are a country."

It's kind of sad that a distinguished member of the Lebanese parliament would think it necessary to even have to insist on a point like that - to have to insist on his country's sovereignty to a first-time visitor. But that's the tragedy of Lebanon, whose domination by its larger neighbor to the east has been a near-constant state of affairs since 1976, when the first Syrian troops arrived to try to put a lid on the then-raging civil war and haven't seen fit to leave yet, though the war (kind of) sputtered out in 1991.

What's doubly sad is that everybody here just sort of assumes that this is the way the United States likes it.

Part of this assumption is, no doubt, merely a reflection of the weary bone-deep cynicism of the Lebanese people. In Beirut, the common bar-room war cry expresses the oh-so-proud determination of the Arab nation (or the Palestinian, or the Syrian, or whomever, take your pick) to "fight Israel to the last Lebanese", cruelly expressing how the Lebanese have a history of being used and manipulated to suit others' agendas.

But the Lebanese also have some good reasons to be cynical about American intentions. It did not escape their notice, for example, that in a press conference in Beirut earlier this month, the only mention by US Secretary of State Colin Powell of Syrian domination in Lebanon was a tossed-off assurance that "the United States supports an independent and prosperous Lebanon, free of all, all foreign forces".

They also noticed that Powell's statement came in a press conference dominated by the question of Hezbollah, not Syria, and they also noticed - the Lebanese are great at noticing things; they keep score - that Powell had spent the first half of that day, Saturday, May 3, in Syria - a neat little time-saving two-for-one scheduling trick that said more about US intentions in the region than any amount of boilerplate Wilsonianism.

They also noticed that Powell's visit to Beirut had been immediately preceded by a visit from Syrian Foreign Minister Farouk al-Shara, "and we all know what that was about", said a local journalist to me over a weary, cynical, day's-end beer. "He came to tell [Lebanese President Emile] Lahoud what to say to Powell." (For the record, Powell suggested that Lahoud send the Lebanese army into south Lebanon to shut down Hezbollah, and Lahoud said no.)

But if Lebanon is a tough audience for Powell, that's not entirely his fault. It was not Powell, after all, but his predecessor in the job, James A Baker III, secretary of state to George Bush Sr, who sold the country down the Yarmouk River in the first place. "In the [1991] Gulf War, Syria sent 1,000 soldiers only," sighs Soueid. "And in return the Americans gave Lebanon to Syria."

Yes, damn them, they noticed.

Soueid isn't bitter about any of this. He's just expressing the calm reality, the "facts on the ground", as he sees them. Soueid likes America. "I don't always agree with the US, but I can't be blind to the good things that America has done. You can make free elections, you can make a scandal to [Bill] Clinton, you can make a scandal to [Richard] Nixon, you can abolish slavery." He just wishes that America would be a little careful "about what you give and take in this region".

Also, when it comes to playing well with others, particularly others who follow the religion of Islam, he wishes that America would look around and realize that others have walked this road before, and that there may be lessons to learn from their experiences. Take Israel: "Think about the history of Israel," he says. "It is a military country that, in its entire history, has been at a permanent war for independence. Since 1948, it has been in a permanent war. Is this how a country should be? Is this what America wants for her sons and daughters? This is a very bad model for living with Islam."

Although he himself is a Maronite Christian, Soueid says that "living in Lebanon, half of my brain is Muslim. And the other half is Lebanese. The Maronites have been living in Lebanon with Islam for thousands of years. Did you know that [poet, philosopher and artist] Khalil Gibran was a Lebanese Christian and that he wrote in Arabic more than he wrote in English?"

The Muslim half of Soueid's brain understands the Arab view of the world: "Think about this: Gamal Abdel Nasser was the first Egyptian leader of Egypt since the Pharaohs. How do you think this affects the way they see the world? So, yes, nationalism is a strong force in the Middle East. And America must remember this."

Himself a Lebanese nationalist, Soueid is one of the founding members of the Qornet Shehwan Gathering, a loose affiliation of Lebanese politicians and business leaders - including former president Amin Gemayel and his son Pierre "who have organized to protest Lebanon's occupation by Syria. The group is named for the mountain village in which it called its first meeting, on April 30, 2001.

Nobody knows the exact number of Syrian troops in Lebanon, but estimates range as high as 30,000, stationed mainly in the east, parts of the north and in the central mountains. Until two years ago they were commonly seen in the streets of Beirut, but a partial pullout has since lowered their profile.

Powell's visit to Syria and Lebanon show that this is something that the whole world accepts. Syrian-backed politicians succeed, while others find themselves at risk. Soueid himself believes that he came near to being arrested in June 2002, after coming under fire from factions who believed that "we are with the Americans, that we are with Israel. It is always a problem for the Christians in Lebanon."

But, as he fights for independence, Soueid still remains proud of what Lebanon has achieved in rebuilding itself after war. "What we need in the Middle East is democracy," he says, "but based on conviviality and freedom. This is the only way to make peace between the Arabs themselves. The Occidental model of democracy - where a numerical majority controls the minority - is a very bad model. In the Arab world, you have to have consensual democracy."

Except for the Syrian domination, he believes that there may be something in the Lebanese experience from which the Arab world - and perhaps even America, too, as it attempts to install a democracy in Iraq - could stand to learn.

Next: A walk through Sabra and Shatila

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May 21, 2003



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