TEHRAN - "Nuclear power is our
right," the boys go. And the black-clad girls
immediately sing along: "Independence and freedom
is the belief of our people!" It sounds great in
Persian, flowing "like a poem", comments a smiling
observer. This - how to call it, an Islamic
revolutionary rap? - goes on for a while. The show
is live, under the blazing sun, at three in the
afternoon in the most crowded area in central
Tehran, a literal traffic-stopper. And it happens
to be right in front of the French Embassy.
And there are some banners too.
"Recognition of our peaceful nuclear technology -
an obligation of the IAEA". "NPT - We will leave
you soon". These are references to the United
Nations' nuclear watchdog, the International
Atomic Energy Agency, and
the
nuclear Non-Proliferation Treaty, of which Iran is
a signatory.
Then there is the perennial
"Down with the USA". The nuclear rap fades out,
and two speakers take over, amid a solid
diplomatic police presence. It's a simple
operation - roughly 200 people plus a truck
customized with loudspeakers. The boys and girls
are of course segregated - boys ahead, girls
behind the truck, all wearing full-length black
chadors, some brandishing photos of Supreme
Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei.
One speaker
reads a concise story of neo-colonial exploitation
- saying essentially that rich countries now
oppress developing countries not directly, with
their physical presence, but by preventing them
from becoming technology-savvy. Another speaker
makes it clear: "No negotiations on Isfahan" - a
reference to the uranium conversion plant in
historic Isfahan that transforms yellowcake -
concentrated uranium - into gas, then introduces
it into the centrifuges of the Natanz plant, 100
kilometers north of Isfahan. Iran recently resumed
its uranium conversion after suspending activities
while negotiating with the EU-3 - Britain, Germany
and France - over its nuclear program. Tehran says
that it has the right under the NPT to develop
nuclear technology for energy purposes. The US
suspects that Iran wants to develop the bomb.
The speaker goes on: "We are not afraid of
sanctions," as has been threatened if Iran's case
is taken to the UN Security Council. Then comes
the chant, very loud: "Death to the evil
governments of France, Germany and England!"
Unless he's using earplugs, the French ambassador
is not having a proper nap today. Suddenly it's
time to move. The boys, the truck and the
black-clad girls start marching, singing their
song under the blazing sun along the conveniently
blocked streets toward the German and British
embassies, which happen to be only a few minutes
away. Repeat of the whole operation. In one hour
and a half it's all over, and central Tehran
resumes its own, polluted, hyper-congested self.
The man in charge of all this is Ibrahim
Motavalian, a soft-spoken surgeon, who crucially
happens to be in charge of all university
bassijis in Tehran. The bassijis are
everywhere - in the Revolutionary Guard, among
students, workers, office employees. They have all
carried at least one week of military training.
And they all respond to Khamenei. Their motto,
inscribed beside their logo, says it all: "The 20
million army".
Motavalian says that the
message today is that "we have the right to
develop nuclear technology by ourselves." He
emphasizes the moment is important, "The
University of Tehran is closed, because of the
summer holidays, and you see the students here."
He is unfazed that the demonstration might not go
down very well in Europe. "We are protesting
against the French Foreign Ministry, which said
that Iran should abandon fuel enrichment, and buy
enriched uranium from Europe. Nuclear technology
is our right." If the nuclear negotiations with
the EU-3 collapse, and sanctions are imposed, "we
will monopolize the media". He believes this could
be the beginning of a true, nationalist, popular
movement.
The Iranian population is
extremely well informed about the nuances of the
current nuclear impasse between the EU-3 and Iran
- certainly more informed than Europeans or
Americans. Every night on prime time on
government-owned Channel Three there's a 15
minute-program, a kind of crash course on the
nuclear fuel cycle, where everyone learns the
difference between water and heavy water, the
meaning of yellowcake and what centrifuges do.
But this is the first coordinated
demonstration in front of the embassies of the
three EU countries involved - after roughly 4,000
people demonstrated last week in both Isfahan and
Natanz, threatening to build human chains if
sanctions are applied or if Washington entertains
plans of bombing Iran's nuclear sites.
Why
this demonstration right now, running the risk of
alienating public opinion in France, Germany and
Britain at the same time? Cynics say it's because
of the ongoing debate in the majlis (parliament)
on the cabinet nominees appointed by new President
Mahmud Ahmadinejad. The televised morning debates
are making it plain to most Iranians that many of
the candidates are not up to the job, and
practically none have managerial experience.
According to the majlis energy committee
chairman, Kamal Daneshyar, no fewer than 10 of the
proposed ministers are seriously running the risk
of being rejected by parliament: in this case
Ahmadinejad will have to propose alternative
candidates. Officials at the Ministry of Culture
say at least the proposed ministers of education,
health and oil will be vetoed.
Whichever
way one looks, this is already a setback for
Ahmadinejad. So this demonstration comes in handy,
diverting public attention from what's happening
in parliament. Nevertheless, the all-important
nuclear issue simply won't go away. Soon the boys
and girls will be back in the streets singing
their nuclear rap. Not to mention the rest of the
"20 million army".
(Copyright 2005 Asia
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