Page turns for Baghdad's ancient book center
By Jinan Farhan
BAGHDAD - Hasan al-Timimie stands surrounded by piles of books strewn on the
ground, arranged in categories covering everything from encyclopedias to copies
of the Koran. This is al-Muttanabi street, a legendary center of the book trade
in Baghdad for hundreds of years.
"Al-Muttanabi is just like the sweet fruit after a fatty meal," declared the
bookseller. "When you eat it, you will surely benefit. Al-Muttanabi means
culture, literature, originality, thinkers,
scientists and literary men; it means all those beautiful things."
The market, named after a classical Iraqi poet of the 10th century, seems to
inspire such lyricism among many of its devotees.
But two-and-a-half years ago, the market was devastated by a bombing that
killed 35 people and wounded many more. In the months that followed, the street
was nearly empty, its shops badly damaged and customers kept away by a daytime
curfew and the poor security situation.
Only after extensive renovation by the Iraqi government, including new lighting
and paving, was the market reopened by Prime Minister Nuri al-Maliki in
December 2008. Now, a year on, life has returned to al-Muttanabi.
Writer and journalist Abbas Mahdie al-Mua'mn browses here every Friday, and
said he would come every day of the week if he could. For him, improved
security in the capital, though occasionally breached with devastating effect,
has been key to the renewed success of the book market.
"The reconstruction process is a real, blessed and successful one," he said,
adding that he hoped it would also lead to a revival in the country's literary
and cultural life. "Arabic publishing houses in Beirut and Cairo should start
branches in Iraq, especially in al-Muttanabi street."
Al-Muttanabi is famous for its huge selection of books covering many languages
and disciplines, from the humanities to the sciences and including all kinds of
fiction. After the Saddam Hussein era, during which many books were banned, a
whole new variety of previously suppressed books appeared in the market.
Haidar Nadhim, who has a master's degree in philosophy and who came to the
street looking for study material, said its recent history mirrored that of the
country.
"The street passed through the crisis which Iraq has passed through in general,
that is the well-known events after the fall [of Saddam Hussein], in addition
to all the blasts and threats. Al-Muttanabi was one of the victims. But after
the government's efforts to destroy the armed groups, al-Muttanabi is buzzing
again, with all the books that mark it as a lively place again," he said.
"Reconstruction has had a good impact as people started to come frequently,
especially those who used to visit the street previously," said bookseller
Abdullah Abdul-Hadi Abdullah. "In addition to its beauty, the security
improvement played an essential role in increasing visitors to the street."
He said it was also once again an important cultural meeting point. "Most of
the authors and cultured people in Iraq come to the street regularly, I think
that the only day they feel alive is when they come here - as well as for
artists, foreign visitors and the media. Most of the provincial council
candidates came to al-Muttanabi to promote their election programs."
But al-Muttanabi's revival has been occasionally interrupted by violence.
Horrific bomb attacks struck the city in August and, most recently, on October
25, killing and wounding hundreds of people. Book venders complain that these
bombings affected them too, even though al-Muttanabi itself was not targeted.
Cars have not been allowed to enter the market since it was attacked in 2007,
and security was ramped up further in the wake of the August bombings, and
again following the October 25 atrocity.
All the streets within a two-kilometer radius have been fully or partly closed
to traffic, with the clampdown tightened on Fridays, when security forces fear
attacks on crowded mosques.
Friday, however, is also the busiest day of the week by far on al-Muttanabi, and
the restrictions clearly deter customers. Elias Ali, a civil engineering
student, was looking for a book on Auto CAD design software, but security
measures meant he had to park his car a couple of kilometers away and walk.
"I have to walk all that distance again to get back to my car and return home,"
he said. "It is really crazy, I will never come here again."
Salih Yaaqob, who runs a bookstall on the street, said, "Whenever there are
bombs, our business gets worse. If there were no more bombs, our lives would be
good again."
In the Dar al-Rawaq shop, books of all colors and sizes were packed on the
ground and on shelves.
"Recently, they suffer from loneliness," joked owner Raeid Fahmi. "They await
their beloved readers, who prefer the security of their homes to seeking
knowledge in this street."
Fahmi, like other book vendors here, used to restock his shop weekly, but "not
even one book has left my store since Bloody Sunday", he said, referring to the
October 25 bombing.
Nonetheless, many book enthusiasts continue to head for al-Muttanabi, despite
the threat of violence. Twin seven-year-old sisters, Hiba and Rand Jamal,
dressed in matching jeans and orange T-shirts, often visit with their father.
"I will still come to this market, even if I have to walk around all the
streets of Baghdad," said Hiba.
With the improved security, women are beginning to return to the book market,
often dropping in on the legendary al-Shabandar cafe to drink tea. It is a
landmark that has long served as a meeting place for prominent cultural
figures.
Amal Hussein, a human-rights activist, said women were regular visitors to the
book shops before the 2003 war, especially on Fridays. Since then, the fear of
violence has kept them away and things are only now beginning to change, she
said.
Rasha al-Amiri agreed that security issues had kept women away. "With so few
visiting, they are being denied knowledge and culture - which in turn is a loss
for society. Al-Muttanabi is a rare treasure, and every cultured woman should
aspire to visit often, especially after all the reconstruction that took place
here," said the journalist.
Some are not so impressed with the reconstruction, though. The bookseller
Abdullah felt that the the refurbishments were mostly superficial. The street,
he said, "needs real reconstruction ... not a cosmetic one. Most of the
buildings are ramshackle and about to fall down."
On the other hand, Nadhim, a veteran customer, praised the "soft touch" of the
restoration, which he said had maintained the character of the old buildings
while making them even more beautiful. But he added, "Al-Muttanabi remains the
same whether it was built with marble or clay. It should be judged on its
contents, not what it looks like. It is a place for culture."
Al-Timimie agreed. "The books here are the most beautiful things," he said.
Jinan Farhan is an IWPR trainee journalist in Baghdad. Abeer Mohamed,
IWPR's senior local editor, based in Baghdad, also contributed to this report.
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