South Asia

BOOK REVIEW
Lament for Kashmir's paradise lost
Tiger Ladies: A Memoir of Kashmir, by Sudha Koul

Reviewed by Ranjit Devraj

NEW DELHI - Sudha Koul's book Tiger Ladies is more than a simple "memoir" of Kashmir as she calls it in the subtitle - it is the literary encapsulation of the tragedy of a hauntingly beautiful territory high in the Himalayas, whose Muslim and Hindu inhabitants have been torn asunder by the greed of others.

Kashmir, according to Pakistan's present military ruler, General Pervez Musharraf, is the "unfinished business of the partition", under which Britain's former empire in India was violently torn into two countries on the basis of religion.

Pakistan's attempts to gain control over Kashmir since 1947 have been through a mix of pitting its army against India's far bigger armed forces, as well as through the use of irregulars - first as kabailis or fierce Afghan marauders bent on plunder and rape, and in more recent times as jihadi or religious fighters armed with automatic weapons.

Koul, a Kashmiri Hindu, describes how the kabailis were driven back by resistance put up by both Hindu and Muslim Kashmiris when they invaded the valley in 1947, forcing the Hindu Maharaja Hari Singh, who had wanted to remain neutral, to accede to India for sheer safety.

Koul, who was born in that momentous year, was later told by her doting grandmother that the kabailis came "hunting infidels and treasures and beautiful women".

Like other Hindus who lived in the valley, Koul and her family were taken into the homes of their Muslim neighbors and hidden at great risk. "I am in my mother's belly and she is also hiding in the dark, waiting for deliverance with the rest of the family."

Help arrives in time in planeloads of the Indian army. "The kabailis are sent back without any carpets, infidels or beautiful women, but they do manage to extricate an odd gold tooth or two pulled out of the mouths of some hapless Irish nuns they attacked at a rural outpost of the order," Koul writes.

But the conflict only began with the beating back of the kabailis. Pakistan and India were to fight open wars over the territory, carving it up into two halves separated by the Line of Control (LoC) or ceasefire line. It is not very well known, but Kashmir became embroiled in the Afghan war by the mujahideen to evict the Soviets in the eighties.

As Koul puts it, "Within a short time Kashmir also started deconstructing at an incomprehensible speed and the violence there became a regular part of the news. The valley was saturated with Kalashnikov rifles, smuggled surplus from Afghanistan and every other young Kashmiri was a militant."

Koul blames the Indian government, in which she served briefly as a ranking administrative officer, for its ham-handed handling of the problem. "There are so many examples of mismanagement, humiliation and short-sightedness by the Indian government that that even sympathetic Kashmiri Muslims are disgusted."

In the process the trust that long existed between Kashmir Muslims and Hindus, cemented by intertwining traditions and the worship of common saints, is shattered - perhaps forever as the Hindus flee the valley and their homes are looted and destroyed by fundamentalists.

For Koul, that tragedy is best represented by Fatha the fishwife who brought fresh fish to her doorstep but was nearly driven insane by the fate of her son, who joined the militants and paid for it by being tortured to within an inch of his life by police. "The old city is full of foreigners who do not speak Kashmiri. We cannot see them; they only reveal themselves to our boys like angels of doom," Koul was informed by Fatha.

Essentially, Tiger Ladies tells the story of Kashmir through the experiences of ordinary women like Fatha. It also tells the story of the women of Koul's own family, spread across three generations and the saints and goddesses they worshipped - in particular the goddess that rides a tiger and who has her temple in Jammu, just outside the valley.

It also affords a peep into the culture of Kashmir through the extraordinarily rich folk traditions of a region that is unique in South Asia and now seriously threatened by Islamic extremism and by the attempts to counter it by the Indian army.

But more than anything else, the book is the story of Kashmiri Hindus or the Pandits, and the loss of the homeland in which they were highly respected. It is about the loss of innocence and of paradise as represented by growing up in a large extended family with small but meaningful comforts.

Among these could be the kangri (the small pot of glowing coals worn by all Kashmiris to stay warm) to a large, loving extended family and the legends, folklore, rites and rituals they are repository to. But there is a sense that all this worked only in the enchanted valley of Kashmir, now often described as the most dangerous place in the world because both Pakistan and India are ready to use nuclear weapons rather than part with it.

Koul herself explains the agony of her own exile in New Jersey through her mother-in-law's thoughts as she lay in her deathbed in a hospital in Buffalo - the only relief coming from the fact that the doctors there were Kashmiris, both Hindu and Muslim.

"They [the doctors] called her 'mother' because she loved them like her own sons and daughters. I suspect that to them as to us, she was a relic from a golden time in Kashmir," Koul writes.

Tiger Ladies: A Memoir of Kashmir, by Sudha Koul, Beacon Press, May 2002. ISBN 0807059188. Price US$24.00, 224 pages

(Inter Press Service)
 
Sep 27, 2002



 

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