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When willow wins over war
By Raja M

MUMBAI - On any other day, news of Rahul Gandhi, son of the assassinated former Indian premier Rajiv Gandhi, formally entering politics would have been shrieked out with banner headlines. The Nehru dynasty scepter has been was passed. Speculation was at an end.

But in these strange times, another Rahul upstaged Indira Gandhi's grandson contesting the forthcoming general elections: India's cricket vice-captain Rahul Dravid had helped even the one-day cricket series in Pakistan 2-2. And this took precedence. In the sub-continent, presently, cricket fever has graduated to a frenzy, and even Indian Prime Minister Atal Bihari Vajpayee and his deputy L K Advani surrendered to this truth.

In the north Indian state of Haryana, savvy campaign managers of Advani arranged for two giant television screens in Chandigarh, during Advani's public meeting, to show Wednesday's deciding match live from Lahore in Pakistan. They doubted even the paid busloads of crowds would turn up for the political meeting during the day-night match.

At Maharajganj, in the key electoral state of Uttar Pradesh, Vajpayee spiced his campaign speeches with praise of cricketer Mohammad Kaif, a local state boy who had starred in an earlier match. "Don't just win matches, win hearts," Vajpayee had advised the Indian team before it left for Pakistan for the first time in 15 years. On Sunday night, he phoned the Indian captain, Sourav Ganguly, and told him: "You have not only won the match, you have won hearts."

Winning hearts is a strange ambition in the negatively surcharged atmosphere of any India versus Pakistan sporting encounter. The cricket field has always been a quasi battleground, with even army chiefs of staff of both countries getting involved in post and pre-match barbs, much as they have done on the real battlefield many times over the years since the independence of the two countries in 1947.

For instance, at Centurion Park, South Africa, during the World Cricket Cup last year, Pakistan's crushing loss to India was greeted with a fury back home that included television sets hurled out of windows and calls for their star batsman, Inzamam-ul-Haq, to be thrown out of the homecoming aeroplane. He was thrown out of the team. In contrast, on Sunday night, the portly Haq, back now as captain, actually smiled at the prize distribution function after losing to India at Lahore's packed Gaddafi Stadium.

Over a year ago, Indian and Pakistan armies were glaring eyeball to eyeball across the Wagah border in Punjab, as war clouds loomed and a nervous world watched the nuclear neighbors. In the past week, Wagah has seen a benign invasion of thousands of cheering Indian fans crossing over to Lahore, and being welcomed enthusiastically by their Pakistani hosts.

For a generation like this scribe's that generally only experiences negative emotions when the word "Pakistan" hits the sense doors, the sights and sound bytes from across the border have been unprecedented. Pictures and reports of Pakistani President General Pervez Musharraf shaking hands with India's superstar cricketer Sachin Tendulkar, and telling him he is a great fan of Tendulkar's, were front paged in every leading Indian newspaper.

Similarly, stories of generous Pakistani hospitality and warmth are being relayed back to India, with some Pakistani restauranteurs even refusing to accept money from visiting Indian patrons, saying: "You are our guests." A picture of the Indian and Pakistani flags stitched together with the slogan "Friends Forever" and reports of Indian cricket fans searching for their ancestral homes in Pakistan opened a heart-tugging window to a time when the two countries were one.

The remarkable shift in cross-border chemistry has astounded many. An amazed Imran Khan, the former Pakistan cricket captain and presently chairman of the Tehreek-e-Insaaf political party, told Australian ABC radio: "People from across the border have come in and raised Indian flags in Pakistan, and we saw the other night Pakistan losing ... Indian supporters holding Indian flags, and Pakistanis standing next to them and cheering. It's something which I never thought I would see in my lifetime, but it has happened." The cricket willow seems to have become, at least for now, a magic wand making a contentious border and decades of deep-rooted animosity vanish.

It's an animosity fed and inflamed by the bloody partition in 1947, the Kashmir issue, three wars and a bitterness and mistrust kept alive by successive military dictatorships on one side and vote-mongering politicians on the other. Cricket, worshipped more as a religion than a game in both countries, was the bargaining pressure chip. Bilateral cricket ties last ruptured during the Kargil war in 1999. The current cricket series is part of what Vajpayee calls his final attempt at peace with Pakistan.

This final attempt appears promising, with release of even election manifestos and Bollywood films being delayed in deference to the cricket. Chartered flights have carted Indian political leaders, CEOs, movie stars and other dignitaries to Pakistan, where they received treatment reserved for royalty. "If they can come here to watch a cricket match, then they can surely be here for business as well," is a common sentiment. The same idea struck Indian entrepreneurs big and small. Ritu Beri, one of India's leading fashion designers, has announced plans to set up shop in Pakistan.

But amid all the newfound bonhomie lurk cold realities. Neither country has budged an inch from its position on Kashmir, though Musharraf admitted to a guffawing Indian audience, in a satellite transmission to a conference in New Delhi this month, that he was tired of talking only about Kashmir. But many cannot take Musharraf's new dove image at face value, given his track record as a soldier and architect of the brief Kargil war in 1999. Besides, demons like al-Qaeda that he nurtured and nourished are coming home to roost, and he needs some respite. For his part, Vajpayee is in an election year and the current peace climate could translate into more votes.

So cynics like J N Dixit, former Indian ambassador to Pakistan and presently vice chairman of the opposition Congress party's foreign affairs cell, have dismissed any tangible benefits coming from cricket diplomacy. But there is no doubt that something fundamental has changed in the way people of both nations look at each other.

An hour from now, at the time of this writing, the final match of the one-day series starts in Lahore. Mumbai is quiet, relaxed and excitedly looking forward to a good game of cricket, rather than the tense, electric atmosphere that has greeted such India-Pakistan encounters in the past, particularly in communally sensitive areas like Mohammad Ali Road.

On March 12, young Rahul Gandhi and his sister Priyanka were warmly cheered as they worked the Pakistani crowds in Karachi's National Stadium before a game there. As when the Pakistani baby Noor came to India for heart surgery in Bangalore last year, the crowd's warmth showed that the undercurrent common bond forged over thousands of years had scored over five decades of conflict.

Maybe the young Gandhis could see a new era of peace in the sub-continent, as when their great grandfather and India's first prime minister, Jawaharlal Nehru, hoped in his famous "Freedom at Midnight" speech 56 years ago: "A moment comes, which comes but rarely in history, when we step out from the old to the new, when an age ends, and when the soul of a nation, long suppressed, finds utterance."

The next few months will reveal how accurately a mere game has voiced the suppressed dreams of two warring brother nations.

And yes, for the first time in my life as I clear decks to watch a big India versus Pakistan cricket match, I am not too concerned about who wins.

Raja M is an independent writer based in Mumbai, India.

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Mar 25, 2004



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