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Iraq anger in India's city of courtesy
By Siddharth Srivastava

NEW DELHI - Reverberations from the US-led war in Iraq are being felt in Lucknow, the capital city of Indian state Uttar Pradesh, known for nawabs (rich hereditary rulers of Mughal states), tehzeeb (culture), Mughlai cuisine and the pehle aap (you first) school of manners.

Over the past week, a spate of protests as well as statements from clerics in the city have warned British, US and Israeli citizens to stay away from the state capital. There are also fears that the demonstrations may spread to the rest of the state, with calls being made to prevent foreigners from entering the precincts of the famous Taj Mahal in Agra, 363 kilometers away from Lucknow. India's Muslims, especially Shi'ites, have reacted sharply to the clash between US forces and Shi'ite militiamen last month in which one of the most sacred shrines of the Shi'ites, the shrine of Hazrat Ali, was damaged. Muslims form a sizeable population in Lucknow, as well as in Uttar Pradesh as a whole.

Such has been the nature of protests that the British Foreign Office issued a travel advisory on Tuesday warning its citizens against traveling to the city, as well as to postpone visits to holy sites. Visitors have been told to keep a safe distance from particular religious sites such as the imambaras (religious monuments) in Lucknow that are replicas of the holy shrines in Najaf and Karbala that were damaged by fighting in Iraq. It is rare for city-specific travel warnings to be issued as they are usually applied to a country as a whole in the wake of a terrorist attack, threat or such macro parameters. The last time the US and British offices issued a travel warning to its citizens concerning India was in 2002 when Indian and Pakistan relations reached a flashpoint and several signs indicated the two countries could go to war.

Addressing a crowd of over 20,000 last week in Lucknow, prominent Shi'ite cleric Maulana Kalbe Jawwad warned, "Americans should not venture anywhere near imambaras, mazaars [tomb of important religious personality or a Muslim king] or other places of religious importance. For if they do, the responsibility of their security would lie with the tourism department or themselves."

Later he told a national daily, "With anti-US sentiments running so high, anything can happen to the tourists. What if some individual decides to settle scores on his own? We can't do anything about that. By closing our doors to US and UK nationals we are sending out a very strong message. We want these tourists to tell everybody back home that they are not welcome in India because of their leaders who are killing innocent Muslims and destroying our shrines," Jawwad said.

"Most of our imambaras are replicas of shrines in Iraq. How can the Americans bomb the original sites and visit their replicas! Where is the logic in that? The bottom line is that Americans should stay away from the imambaras and similar places, because we would be very uncomfortable with their presence," he added. "We would like to build pressure on the Congress government to demand an apology for the perpetrators of this sacrilegious act. In the Christian world this is equivalent to bombing the Vatican," he said. Jawwad has also announced that he plans to organize a massive rally with over 500,000 people in New Delhi.

Various other fronts representing both Shi'ite and Sunni Muslims have joined hands to ban the entry of foreign tourists into Muslim monuments and religious places. In a protest by the Imam-e-Raza committee (its members oversee the upkeep of mosques in Lucknow) and the All India Youth Federation, a demand was raised to ensure that "US atrocities on the people of Iraq [are] brought to an end". An appeal was sent to Indian President A P J Abdul Kalam that India must raise its voice against the US actions.

Harish Chandra Dhanuk of Imambara Kishnu Khalifa - a replica of holy shrines in Najaf and Karbala in Iraq - said that they had requested the government of India to ask the United Nations to ensure that US-led forces are removed from Iraq. "A democratic government should also be set up in Iraq so that the people there can get justice. If the government does not listen to our demands, then we will move to Taj Mahal and impose a ban on entry of foreign tourists there," said Dhanuk.

Government response to these protests has so far been muted and understandably so. Both the Congress-led union government as well as Uttar Pradesh's ruling Samajwadi Party actively woo the Muslims in their constituency. Requesting to remain anonymous, police as well as tourism officials in the state have been quoted in the press saying that in the interests of security, Western visitors should stay away from Lucknow for a while till matters settle down. They have obviously been advised by their political bosses to say so. Indeed, unlike the previous BJP-led government, the Congress, which has the support of the Muslims, can ill afford to ignore these demands. During the 1990-91 Gulf War, India's dependency on the International Monetary Fund saw New Delhi voting for the UN resolution authorizing the expulsion of Iraqi troops from Kuwait, but permission given to US planes to refuel in Mumbai had to be withdrawn subsequently thanks to widespread protest.

There have been some voices of dissent against the Muslim clerics' move. "I don't see any logic in warning British and American visitors away from the imambaras and maqbaras [mausoleums]," says Rosie Llewellyn-Jones, a UK-based author who has written many books on Lucknow, in an interview to The Times of India. "The city anyway is not a popular holiday destination for foreign tourists. And those who do make it are usually cultured and intelligent people, often scholars and historians like me. The fact that they have chosen to spend their time visiting these buildings should be welcomed, not condemned," she added.

"It's not as if the pain and exasperation of Muslims in Lucknow does not strike a chord with people, it's just that threats such as these only undermine the moral authority of the clerics. Muslim, particularly Shi'ite, anger against the continuing invasion of Iraq is justified," says Llewellyn-Jones. "Anger against the fighting in Iraq's holiest places in Najaf and Karbala is quite understandable too. But having said that I don't think it would do anyone any good to issue edicts like these," she added.

The Naib Imam (appointed deputy religious head of the mosque) of Lucknow, Idgah Maulana Khalid Rashid, has said that many American civilians have vociferously protested against the Bush administration and its foreign policy in Iraq. It would thus be inadvisable to prevent tourists from coming to these monuments, he added.

However, voices such as Rashid and Llewellyn-Jones are very few and with the governments both at the center and state more than willing to allow Muslims to have their say, Lucknow for the moment is closed to the West.

Siddharth Srivastava is a New Delhi-based journalist

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Jun 11, 2004



 

     
         
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