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    South Asia
     Feb 12, 2005
Here's $20m, just don't make me cook
By Indrajit Basu

KOLKATA - It took a while to catch on, but as the country's 15-year-old globalization process brings about rapid changes in the lifestyles of urban Indians, ready-to-eat food is fast becoming a compelling proposition. Over the past two years, the ready-to-eat packed food market has grown from an almost insignificant number to become a US$20-million-revenue industry in 2004. Industry players say that, considering the current 35% growth rate, revenues in this sector can easily touch $50 million in the next three years.

Take the instance of Mumbai-based Ruma Banerjee, a 40-year-old market research professional, who gets her ready-to-eat curry pastes or cooked packed meals from a grocery shop at the mall next to her office. "It's not that I do not like to cook, but with a 70-hour work week, an equally busy husband and a 10-year-old child at home, we have little time for regular cooking," she says. For Shruti Rajam, 23, an insurance-industry professional living alone in Chennai on her first job, time is not really a problem. Cooking is. Shruti never had to enter the kitchen in her life when she was with her parents. But now that she is on her own, stuffing her kitchen cabinet with ready-made food seems to be the obvious option. "It's cool," she says, "I have become an expert at this. Even my friends think I am a great cook."

Ruma and Shruti are part of a rapidly growing tribe of urban Indians who are increasingly shunning the painstaking job of chopping, slicing, dicing and mixing the right ingredients, to simply picking up a pair of scissors and snipping open a pack of a two-minute everyday Indian meal. Indeed, ready-made India curries that were unheard of even a few years back occupy the pride of place in Indian kitchens now. Brands such asITC Aashirwad, Kitchens of India, MTR Food, Tasty Bites and Currie Classic are not only gaining acceptance in double-income nuclear families all over India, but are also spreading rapidly globally.

"Indian lifestyle is undergoing a massive socio-economic change, which is also being reflected in food habits," says Ravi Naware, divisional chief executive of ITC Foods, a wing of ITC Ltd, one of India's largest fast-moving consumer-goods company. "In urban India, where time is more important than money, it's tough to return from office and put the hours into cooking that a typical Indian meal demands. Also, young Indians have not picked up the cooking skills from their parents, mostly because they are simply not interested."

J Suresh, chief executive officer (CEO) and executive director of MTR Foods that claims to be the largest player in the segment with over 65% market share, adds that ready-made food is not considered extravagant expense anymore. "Many Indian households with little time and inclination to spend in the kitchen are adopting this as a necessity. Moreover, with disposable income going up as families become more double-income and salaries going up, people don't mind spending on something that will save them the sweat in kitchen," he says.

The quick-fix food concept is not really new in India, it has only picked up of late. It was launched over a decade ago in different forms but failed to take off primarily because of a general preference for freshly cooked food. And also, as Naware says, "because retail outlets in India lacked the adequate refrigeration facilities". With the availability of a new technology called Retort - that packs cooked food in a four-layer package, which is then heated to 120 degrees Celsius to kill all living organisms, thereby ensuring freshness through its much longer shelf-life - the ready-to-eat food concept has become far more acceptable." Besides, says Suresh of MTR Foods, all ready-made food makers have adopted Hazard Analysis Control Point Certification from the British Standard Laboratory, which signifies that factories making such products follow strict food and safety norms.

Nevertheless, all ready-made food makers say the primary driving force behind the growth of this sector is the changing Indian mindset toward food. Convenience is the new buzzword. "There was a time when eating out was a luxury," says Amit Jatia, managing director of McDonalds India. "Not any more. Likewise, an urban Indian no longer hesitates to pick up a phone and order meal from a neighborhood restaurant or pick up a ready-to-eat meal from the next-door store." According to AC Neilsen ORG MARG, a top market research outfit, it is not just ready-to-eat food that is growing at a scorching pace, but "eating habits are changing rapidly and fast-food consumption is now a part of everyday life...Almost a third of urban Indians now claim to opt for fast food, even for breakfast. Dinner, however, remains the most-preferred occasion for eating fast food," says Sarang Panchal, executive director of AC Neilsen.

According to the findings of the latest online survey from AC Nielsen, urban Indians are among the top 10 most-frequent consumers of fast food across the globe. The survey finds that a huge 71% of urban Indians consume food from take-away restaurants once a month. Some 37% of the adult Indian population does so at least once a week. This makes India one of the top 10 countries among the 28 surveyed in terms of frequency of fast-food consumption.

"The incidence of fast food consumption in urban India is accelerating much faster than most people anticipated," says Panchal. "Contrary to the belief that a reliance on traditional and home-made preparation may hinder the growth of fast food, changing lifestyle has altered the view toward out-of-home meals. A willingness to spend and, most importantly, the urban Indian acquiring a more global palate has catalyzed consumption."

Among the international fast food chains and local operators, McDonald's is the most popular of all take-away options. Nonetheless, selling fast food and ready-made food is not exactly easy, say the players, especially for foreign players, as Domino's Pizza India CEO Arvind Nair discovered. Which is why, he says, "Imported fast food chains were quick to adapt to Indian tastes and even the regional variations. There are extensive vegetarian menus, for example, and emphasis on the kind of meats that Indians have no objection to," says Nair.

Indians' discerning taste buds is a big reason why industry experts like Naware and Suresh feel that foreign players would find little opportunity in this new fad "unless it is ready to tie up with a local player". However, for foreign players, India could be a good sourcing point for the overseas markets. "The growth of ready-made food and curry pastes has also been scorching in overseas markets," says Naware. "The potential for exports are very good. We are experiencing explosive demand for ready-made Indian food from overseas markets like the US, the UK, Canada and Europe. This demand is not only generated by the non-resident Indian community but also by the local populations that are increasingly getting exposed to Indian cuisine through Indians living there, and also through their travels. I came across a projection recently that says by 2020, no American will cook starting from basic ingredients all the way. They will either use ready-to-cook or ready-to-eat food". India exported about $7 million worth ready-made Indian food in 2004, which is growing at around 20% a year.

According to industry insiders, the opportunity for foreign players in the country's fast food segment is huge. Nair of Domino's Pizza says although Indians' penchant for spicy food has resulted in an Indian-Chinese cuisine that is quite unknown in Sichuan province or Guanzhou, the snowballing retail revolution aimed at India's 300-million-strong middle class has created a natural habitat for imported fast food. "Down the road, I can see not only pizzas and burgers and fizzy drink but also branded sushi, Vietnamese soup, Lebanese kebabs and Thai food-in-bowls to join our Mughlai and dosa," says Nair.

And according to Naware, yet another untapped segment that could be utilized by foreign players through their marketing prowess are the smaller towns and suburbs of India. Despite its scorching growth, the concept of ready-to-eat and fast food are still restricted to the six larger Indian cities and a few smaller ones while a huge section of the country's billion-plus population is still not exposed to it. "That has happened because marketing ready-made and fast foods in the rest of India requires huge wherewithal that Indian companies do not have. This is where foreign players can excel," says Naware.

Indrajit Basu is a Kolkata-based equity-analyst-turned-journalist with more than 12 years of experience in business/finance and technology journalism. Besides writing for Asia Times Online, he also writes for US-based publications, as well as IT companies.

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