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    South Asia
     May 21, 2005
BOOK REVIEW
Bowled over in Pakistan
Pundits From Pakistan. On Tour With India, 2003-04 by Rahul Bhattacharya.

Reviewed by Raja M

MUMBAI - Sometimes, one should judge a book by its cover. On the front cover of Pundits from Pakistan, a scarecrow-like individual, in white flannels and with his back to the world, leaps up like he found a bomb under his chair. Above him rolls the title credit. Above it a vehicle, looking like the offspring of a marriage between a bus and a circus truck, giddily leaps up with humans sedately perched on the vehicle roof. "Let rulers concern themselves with their work," intones an inscription in Devanigiri script on the back cover that is delightfully laden with black and white photographs of people of some timeless time.

This is supposed to be book on cricket, a sport whose rich literature I have grown up devouring, and later, briefly was a colleague of the author, making my living writing about the game for Wisden (the "Bible" of cricket). But never before have I come across a cricket book such as this. If bookstores slot Pundits under the sports section, many might miss enjoying a superb travelogue and a dairy with rare sub-continental vignettes. From scenes out of Lahore, Karachi, Islamabad and Multan to idiots on the Grand Trunk Road dyeing chickens in fluorescent colors and selling them as exotic pets to bigger idiots, Pundits is a charming insight into the life of Pakistan, India's estranged brother nation.

A cricket fan might recognize on the book cover Venkatapathy Balaji, India's irrepressible opening bowler, and know he was celebrating taking a wicket. But you don't need to be a cricket fan to be entertained by one of the finest young writers in English that India presently is yet to recognize (it usually takes a Booker short list or an advance with six zeroes). Nicely balanced (about 130 pages of actual match descriptions in 305 pages of gripping text), Pundits tells stories within a story, and studs many little gems in the necklace of India's much hyped cricket tour of Pakistan in 2004.

"The night was in full bloom at Laxmi Chowk," the author writes about an evening out in Lahore, before he goes on to describe a masseur suddenly working on him. "I was embarrassed, and requested him to stop; Aslam kept signalling him to go on. There was nothing to do but submit, and it was inside this submission that Aslam declared garrulously, 'I love India'. ' I love Pakistan,' I replied. He summoned Tabussum. 'I love India,' he was asked to embrace me and say, and he did. ' I love Pakistan,' I embraced him back and said.

"It was all terribly grandiose. We must have thought of ourselves as benevolent emperors, able to dole out such a large love on a whim. But this was Punjab; and we must proclaim. And we were in the moment and we were true to the moment."

The cricket series was a moment in history of a remarkable breakthrough in India-Pakistan relations, the two nuclear-armed neighbors tirelessly squabbling over Kashmir after the tragedy of partition. Before this tour, I never imagined a moment such as one where the Indian and Pakistani flags would be stitched together and waved in Pakistan. Or that a Pakistani crowd would cheer an Indian victory. "It was strange," a Pakistani from Lahore is quoted in the book, "to be feeling happy for them as they beat us."

Throughout the cricket tour, called variously from the "friendship series" to the "match-fixed series", the Indian media reported stories of lavish hospitality to Indian visitors. The author had his share of it, including from a Lahore taxi driver who charged him less, Khaleel the cyber cafe owner in Multan who didn't charge him at all, Aslam the greedy hotelier in Lahore who grudgingly lowered the inflated room tariff, the border guard at Wagah who first refused to let him through to the famous border-gate shutting ceremony at dusk, and then apologetically stood aside after knowing this young man was an Indian.

"The pampering would not cease over the coming weeks," the author marvels on page 28. "Friends and family had advised before leaving that better to be inconspicuous and try to pass off as a Pakistani; by the end of it Pakistanis were seriously contemplating posing as Indians and reaping the rewards. I had not been made to feel so welcome anywhere in the world."

The author was born eight years after India last went on a full scale war with Pakistan in 1971, and fours years before India won the cricket World Cup in England in 1983. He brings with his age the self-confident, broadminded view of a generation not bottle-fed with hate-Pakistan hymns. Bollywood, cricket and the neighboring country gobbles up so much of India's consciousness and the book shows how much it's the same with Pakistan.

The author's match reports are crisply efficient, and the entire book glistens with the sweat of labored research, and tingles with a pulsating flow. The broad picture emerges without missing the little details. "The Longest Day", the report of the first one-day game at Karachi on March 13, ought to apply for admission into the all-time classics in sports reporting. It's an exceptional description of the drama, excitement, ebb and flow of a closely fought game of cricket, a sport that is all at once the most majestic of all team sports, of the longest duration, the most criminal waste of human time, and a sport that sometimes gives the most heart-attack generating excitement of all.

The author describes the nerve-shattering climax of the Karachi match, with Pakistan bravely chasing a daunting Indian target of 350 runs in 50 overs (Pakistan's Daily Times reported that Suresh Gutgutia, a 57-year-old Indian fan, died of heart attack while watching this climatic moment). Watching on is the excitable Javed Miandad, Pakistan's coach during the series and former legendary batsman who had hit a six off the last ball to win a final against India in Sharjah, United Arab Emirates, in 1986, a win that is said to have devastated Indian morale for long years to come. Picador will excuse me for this long extract:
And with that we were down to it. Six from the last ball. What irony! Miandad purveyor of the single most famous stroke in Pakistan's history, perhaps even India's history, shouted out and gesticulated avidly from the dressing room. He wanted to do it himself, he was itching to do it himself, he would give anything to do it himself. But Moin had to do it. Before India was the opportunity to lay to rest a ghost, to draw a line. Ganguly made a tinker with the field, sensibly calling up fine leg into the circle to install extra protection at cow corner.

Nehra hared in with short steps, curved as a bow but piercing like an arrow through the thick, quite unbelievable layers of noise. Whether it was a yorker gone wrong or whether Nehra indeed planned it that way, as he was to claim later, it will never be known, but the most momentous delivery of his life came out as a rapid groin-high full-toss. It started leg, angling, swinging even a touch, away into middle, rushing Moin, who nevertheless appeared for a split second positioned to deposit it as per requirement. But it was quicker than expected, and it was higher than expected, and as he leaned back and lashed, his right hand slipped off the handle and the ball slid off the face and looped lamely in the air - O Moin! What have you done! - and into the hands of Zaheer Khan at mid-off who whooped a triple whoop which rang starkly in the naked silence of the arena. Then after a few seconds of recovery, as the Indians clustered together in triumph, applause poured forth from every direction, and it poured and it poured and it poured in absolute unison. It poured till the hair stood on end, till one felt at one with it, of it really. No one spoke in these moments, the most moving of moments, a people reaching out to another.
A year later, thousands of cricket fans from Pakistan were in India, using the April cricket tour to grab a precious visa to the land of their forefathers. Pakistani fans visiting Chandigarh, in Indian Punjab, were deluged with Indian hospitality, gawked at Indian girls riding scooters and other such civilian freedoms missing in their own country, and said, "India is not like we imagined. I don't feel like going back home."

Cricket had become an excuse to begin healing the long festering raw scars of partition in 1947, when one great nation became two. "So this was it, then," the author winds up, "the single biggest window there had been in almost 50 years, the single biggest window for a people to talk to another. We talked pretty well I think. And in the name of a contest."

Pundits From Pakistan. On Tour With India, 2003-04 by Rahul Bhattacharya. Picador, Pan Macmillan. ISBN: 0330-43979-0. Price: US$15. 344 pages.

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