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    South Asia
     Aug 26, 2011


Less jaw-jaw, more war-war
By Raja Murthy

MUMBAI - A new Harvard University study says cooking led to civilization and where we are now. Our ancestors first discovered the origin to chow mein and curries 1.9 million years ago - and cooking helped them outrace other primates in evolution.

By cooking food, says the study submitted to the US National Academy of Sciences and released August 22, human ancestors softened food, and softer food required less time to chew. In contrast, cows, primates and other animals continue investing 48% or more of their working day moving their jaws to process meals. And humanity has evolved on to using jaws to make Skype calls and election speeches.

So the world's oldest profession is being a chef, observed Science News. The Washington-based biweekly along with Scientific

 
American published excerpts of the unique study on August 22.

"Unique among animals, humans eat a diet rich in cooked and non-thermally processed food," says the study by Chris Organ, Harvard University professor of Evolutionary Biology, and his colleagues Charles Nunnb, Zarin Machanda and Richard Wranghamb, "The ancestors of modern humans who invented food processing, including cooking, gained critical advantages in survival and fitness through increased caloric intake."

The study compared the jaws of human ancestors with a variety of primates, the top-ranked mammals, like 12 species of lemurs (Strepsirrhini), 28 species of New World monkeys (Platyrrhini), and 33 species of Old World monkeys, gibbons, and apes (Catarrhini). Co-author Machanda has for the last 14 years studied captive and wild African chimpanzees, understanding social relationships between them and other primates.

The Harvard University researchers found that early humans spent a tenth as much time in feeding, relative to body size, than fellow primates who are currently still climbing trees. With more varied activity from less time chewing food, the brain size of humans too became larger in proportion to body size, and led to presumably greater intelligence.

It also led to ancient cooking techniques like stone boiling that involves placing stones into or next to a hearth or other fire source. The heated stones are then placed in a vessel containing water, liquid or semi-solid food. The hot stones heat the food - a technique used by some modern restaurants in the United States.
In Asia, the earliest Chinese cooking systems are credited to Emperor Sui Ren (2,737-2,697 BC), who concluded that eating raw food causes disease. So perhaps Emperor Ren with his cooking revolution is the unofficial grandfather of Chinese civilization.

Ancient Chinese historian and astronomer Sima Qian (145-90 BC) pushed cooking to the next higher dimension in human history. He declared that Yi Yin, the earliest well-known prime minister to Chinese emperors, became prime minister because he was a fantastic cook.

Sima Qian, or Ssi-ma Ch'ien, wrote in his celebrated Shiji, or "Records of the Historian", that Yin was originally Ah Heng, a slave of the Youxinshi family. In due course of life as a free man, Yi Yen wished to convey to Emperor Tang his humble ideas on how to run the empire.

Yen, perhaps founder of the school of thought that the way to a man's heart is through his stomach, arrived for the appointment with the emperor armed with his kitchen utensils. He proceeded to cook a feast so delicious that the sated emperor decided anyone with such outstanding ability to cook would also have an outstanding ability to govern the country.

Emperor Tang, according to official Chinese history, was right. Yi Yen did a good job as prime minister. (And if top chefs have a greater calling, Seiji Yamamoto at Tokyo's Nihonryori Ryugin, voted the world's top Asian cuisine restaurant in 2011 in a British magazine survey, would make a reasonable premier, especially given that Japan has had six prime ministers in the last five years.)

Other cooks flourished in ancient Chinese politics. Peng Zu, hailed as founder of Chinese cooking, became a confidant of one of the great Chinese emperors Emperor Yao, about 4,000 years ago.

Less time chewing food was converted into more time preparing elaborate feasts. Historical records say that imperial kitchens in the Zhou Dynasty (11th century BC-476 BC) had 22 departments and over 2,300 food and beverages staff. This is reckoned to be the golden age of Chinese cooking.

Cooked food reflected imperial ranking too. The emperor was offered a minimum of 26 bowls of various dishes every meal. Princes and dukes were given 16 dishes, marquis had 13, senior officials feasted on eight goodies and their juniors had mere six-course meals.

All this imperial feasting, we now know, dates back to nearly two million years ago when some cave dwelling person perhaps accidentally spilled uncooked food into the fire lit to keep warm, and discovered cooked food and civilization. The Harvard University study found a "substantial evolutionary rate change' in the feeding time of humans after the human-chimpanzee split from living in trees.

Chewing cooked food also led to humans having smaller jaws and lesser molar teeth size - and perhaps saving humanity from even more painful dentist fees. Humans had to spend only about 5% of a day eating, and developed other activities and hobbies that led to most folks eating to have energy to work, instead of living to eat.

Not that everyone, of course, delighted in or depended on cooked food. If the strong citizens of ancient Sparta gave much thought to food, it was about eating less of it. In the Himalayas, where the gods live, hermits in solitude live healthily off berries and less.

Ancient India, over 2,500 years ago, discovered the double-edge sword of cooked and thereby more delicious food: over-eating as the largest cause of aging. More cellular activity in the metabolism of digesting food causes body cells and organs to decay quicker.

Chimps and other primates, though, may not be entirely impressed with the new Harvard University findings, or regret having missed the evolutionary express bus. "Unlike you human fellows, we may be still spending far more time in trees chewing uncooked chow," they might retort in sign language, "but at least we haven't had time to make wars and global warming."

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