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    South Asia
     Jul 7, 2012


SPEAKING FREELY
Blemished gem of Pakistan's tribal regions
By Khan Zeb Burki

Speaking Freely is an Asia Times Online feature that allows guest writers to have their say. Please click here if you are interested in contributing.

Fighting in the AfPak region since the September 11, 2001 attacks has turned the tribal areas of Pakistan into a hell on earth, with the toppling of the Taliban regime in Afghanistan by Western forces paving the way for an emergence of Taliban groups in Waziristan and other bordering regions.

Counter-measures in shape of Pakistan military operations since have deprived the people in these regions of hope. Their culture, language, economy and social life have been crushed between

 

the militants and the military, with the Mehsud and Burki tribes of Waziristan losing their identity and the tribal and linguistic history of the scenic area of Kaniguram under threat.

Located in the heart of South Waziristan's Mehsud area, Kaniguram is densely populated town inhabited mostly by the Burki/Urmar tribe and a mixture of other Pakhtun tribes, including the Mehsud and the Wazir, who known as kandkimor live in the upper part of town.

Kaniguram or Kanigram is known locally as Shora (Pashto) while in Burki language is called Shor, a scenic place full of natural beauty. Rainwater streams or lgad run on both sides of Kaniguram. The mesmerizing beauty of the area once attracted people to the town from across Waziristan and adjacent areas. However, since Operation Rah-e-Nijat (Path to Salvation) was launched by the Pakistan army in 2009, most residents have been forced to flee the region.

The language of the Burki people now faces a severe threat of extinction. The war forced the inhabitants of Kaniguram to take shelter in other parts of Pakistan. Some left for big cities like Karachi and Islamabad, while others are now spending their lives as internally displaced persons (IDPs), know locally as mutasireen in the adjacent districts of Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa.

Before displacement, these people lived closely together in one town, but now they are miserably dispersed and cannot remain in touch. The language of Burki/Urmari is taking its last breaths, and if no proper attention is given to the issue, will cease to exist.

The Burki tribe, also known as the Urmar, have been the primary inhabitants of Kaniguram since the reign of Mehmood Ghaznavi, who from 997-1030 AD ruled the Ghaznavid Empire centered in modern-day Afghanistan.

Kaniguram is an historic town built on a mountain. The houses have been built close together in such a manner that the rooftop of one sits immediately below the lawn of the other. From a distance, these houses seem to be ladder steps. A recent increase in the population of Kaniguram had led to people inhabiting the other mountains around the old city, and at night the city looked like a dense galaxy surrounded by other galaxies.

Kaniguram has historically been a seat of learning where people from the region including Afghanistan came to quench their thirst for knowledge. It has still significant importance in education and learning in Waziristan. The people are of a soft and mild nature with good reasoning ability and judgment.

The inventor of Pashto script, which ensured Pashto literature and writing, and the pioneer of the Rokhaniya Movement, Pir Rokhan was from Kaniguram. The city is famous for its saints, and the local poets call it Kor Dy Ziuratay (Home of Shrines). The city is surrounded by numbers of tombs in which Kaka Ziarat, Gharibak, Mian Khani, Mian Gee, Mian Pirwali, Mian Shakarzen (Shikari), Mamund, Mamakaran, Pacha Sahib, Eidgai Ziarat, Sarind Gharay Ziarat, and Yeksir are prominent. It is also famous for its jewelry and draggers. Its draggers (locally known as fawladi khanger or chura) are famous in the tribal and adjacent region.

However, because of ongoing military operations the beautiful town is now deserted. More than 100,000 IDPs from Kaniguram are holding iron keys to open their locked doors, while not knowing the real state of their home. Pictures of the area show a scene of destroyed homes where silence reigns. These images have made some people so desperate that they have abandoned their decision to return home because the cost of reconstruction is so high.

Destruction is easier than construction. For the army, it was easy to bomb a house during the operation without considering rebuilding expenses - a single brick costs 25 Pakistani rupees ($0.25) in the region. Many are calling for the government should increase the rehabilitation compensation from 25,000 Pakistani rupees to a minimum of 200,000, as well as for it to provide living facilities to IDPs in refugee camps and in their hometowns on their return.

The preservation of the culture, language and identity of the people of Kaniguram will only be possible if its residents are allowed to return to their hometown and provided with all living facilities. If this can happen, this historic and scenic area will become a hub of tourism activity.

Speaking Freely is an Asia Times Online feature that allows guest writers to have their say. Please click here if you are interested in contributing. Articles submitted for this section allow our readers to express their opinions and do not necessarily meet the same editorial standards of Asia Times Online's regular contributors.

Khan Zeb Burki is an M Phil scholar and tribal affairs analyst. He can be reached at waziristan@usa.com.

(Copyright 2012 Khan Zeb Burki)





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