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    South Asia
     Jul 13, 2012


Paradise adopts a dress code
By Neeta Lal

Just when the strife-ravaged Kashmir Valley - immortalized by 13th century Urdu poet Amir Khusrau in his works as a "paradise on Earth" - was regaining its lost mojo as a tourist destination, a draconian edict seems to be turning the clock back.

In a move that has roiled the local travel trade community, the right-wing hardliner religious organization Jamaat-e-Islami has issued a diktat that a dress code which "honors" local sensitivities be imposed upon all visiting tourists.

"Some tourists," read the statement issued last week by the Jamaat, "mostly foreigners, are seen wandering in short mini-skirts and other objectionable dresses here openly, which is quite against the local ethos and culture and not acceptable to the civil society at all."

The body, a former constituent of the Hurriyat Conference led by

 

Syed Ali Shah Geelani, has also instructed that the state tourism department discourage "this cultural aggression against Kashmiri Muslims and remain vigilant against elements, who, in the garb of promoting tourism, are promoting vulgarity, alcoholism, drug trafficking and other immoral activities".

The directive is already being implemented by local houseboat owners and hoteliers. They have put up prominent notices asking tourists to dress "appropriately" while in Kashmir. The President of the Houseboat Owners Association Abdul Azim Tuman told the media that it is mandatory for its members to display the advisories in every houseboat and hotel.

The Jamaat's edict, say Kashmiris, is a throwback to the early 1990s when radical groups banned cinema halls, wine shops and beauty parlors as they were "anti-Islamic". The sartorial scandal, they fear, will have immediate ramifications on the state's resurgent tourism industry.

Kashmir has seen a record number of tourist arrivals this year, both domestic and foreign. According to state tourism department figures, over 523,000 domestic tourists and 17,000 foreign tourists have visited Kashmir since January. In addition, over 130,000 pilgrims pass through the state for the annual Amarnath Yatra, a holy pilgrimage to the shrine of the Hindu goddess Vaishno Devi.

Jammu and Kashmir Tourism Minister Nawang Rigzin Jora has said that 2011 was a "historic" year for the state in terms of the number of tourists and pilgrims. "Peace during the last year has given fresh impetus to tourism activities in the state, be it leisure or adventure tourism in the Kashmir Valley and Ladakh," stated Jora. The state has targeted two million visitors this year.

Domestic tourists have rediscovered their love for the Valley after what seems an inordinately long and brutal winter of near-empty hotels since the insurgency against Indian rule began in 1988. However, over the last three years, a marketing drive by the federal and state governments and peace in the Valley have helped put Kashmir back on the tourist map.

Despite the furor over the ban, Kashmir Chief Minister Omar Abdullah has kept silent on the matter. The lack of comment from Abdullah, a third-generation chief minister and a prolific tweeter, is seen in political circles as a clever diplomatic move.

"The chief is hedging his bets," says a Congress party worker. "He neither wants to antagonize the extremist outfits nor offend the tourism industry. However, he should realize that keeping quiet on this sensitive matter won't make the problem vanish."

Meanwhile, Jamaat's directive is confusing tourists who expect tolerance in the world's largest democracy.

"We don't require a stupid controversy to upend years of our efforts to rejuvenate the travel trade," Ghulam Mohammad, a houseboat owner, told Asia Times Online in a phone interview. "Such vigilantism and cultural policing," added Bashir Ahmed, a member of the Kashmir Houseboat Owners Association, "should be dealt with strictly by the government."

Tourism, say locals, can be the bedrock on which to rebuild the economy of Jammu and Kashmir. The state has suffered incalculable damage from the insurgency will many traders and talented craftsmen migrating to other Indian states in search of a livelihood.

Jamaat's call also has potential to damage government efforts to get Western countries to remove travel advisories against Kashmir. Since 1989, all European Union countries have advised their citizens against visiting Kashmir. But last year Germany made the first move by doing away with that restriction.

"Kashmir is an international destination and foreign tourists are quite aware of local culture. They even adhere to a strict dress code when visiting religious sites like mosques by wearing scarves etc. What is the need for this policing?" asked John Vaughan, a visiting American tourist.

Kashmir isn't new to such controversies. In December 2010, leading Islamic seminary Darul Uloom Deoband banned jeans and other form-fitting garments in the state, in the view that Muslim religious beliefs dictate that clothes be "loose and simple". In another controversial observation, the organization has spoken out against the use of condoms.

Another conservative Islamic women's group, The Dukhtaran-e-millat (Daughters of Faith), had also spearheaded a campaign to reinforce the burqa culture in the state. Its modus operandi included hurling paint at women who weren't wearing burqas.

Neeta Lal is a widely published writer/commentator who contributes to many reputed national and international print and Internet publications.

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