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BOOK
REVIEW
The road in Asia less
traveled
The Traveler and
the Gate Checkers by Ted
Lerner
Reviewed by D S Malesevic
 Welcome to Ted Lerner's Asia: sex temples in
India, Japan's intense professional-wrestling fans, Hong
Kong's infamous Chungking Mansions, laid-back Laos, and
Filipinos who live life "their way".
Five highly
enjoyable short stories bound together in Lerner's
latest travelogue-cum-reportage-cum-sociological
dissertation, The Traveler and the Gate Checkers,
delve into different slices of Asian life.
The
adventure starts in India, where Lerner's first
challenge is to negotiate through the crowded madness
that is a nation of more than a billion people - and
avoid the overwhelming number of hawkers. Interspersing
enough background to give a taste of India's rich
historical past, the book takes readers for a whirlwind
tour of Kolkata, Mahatma Gandhi's Delhi house and, of
course, the Taj Mahal.
A little off the beaten
path are the ancient sex temples in Khajuraho. One
thousand years ago, various Hindu kings built temples
depicting sexual intercourse and play. (p 53) This
"unabashed" display of sexuality is contrasted with
modern India's conservative attitude toward sex, love
and marriage. Lerner, however, sees hints of the
nation's past still present today.
From sex to
violence, the reader is next drawn into the universe of
avid wrestling fans in Japan. Forget all the glitz and
drama of America's World Wrestling Entertainment, pro
wrestling in Japan is focused on being as real and as
fierce as possible.
Lerner befriends Masa, who
becomes his guide to the world of blood, pain and glory.
Masa is described thus: "By day he was a mild-mannered
postal worker. By night he was a wrestling maniac." (p
94) Indeed, it is this juxtaposition of the
stereotypical "quiet and polite Japanese" with fanatical
wrestling lovers that is so interesting. Toss in
depictions of the tough wrestlers themselves and this
section stands out.
Switching gears again,
Lerner uses the prism of the notorious Chungking
Mansions to describe the handover of Hong Kong from the
British to the Chinese in 1997. Presented as the "the
United Nations of common people" (p 142), Chungking
Mansions is five buildings that offer guesthouses,
restaurants and many other services. The mansions become
the personification of Hong Kong itself with its
international flavor and the feeling that anything can
happen at any time. Visiting before and after the
handover, Lerner concludes that despite the city's
economic problems, its vibrancy has not changed.
Fast-paced Hong Kong seems solar systems away
from easy-going Laos, where Lerner tries to unravel the
mysteries of the landlocked and closed Southeast Asian
nation. Food and other expenses are relatively
inexpensive in the land of kip where stunning landscapes
and a mellow atmosphere lends themselves to a pleasant
traveling experience. Although Lerner doesn't unlock
enigmatic Laos's secrets, his snapshot of the country is
appealing.
What travelogue on Asia would be
complete without a karaoke experience? In the last
installment, Lerner treads a ground he knows very well:
the Philippines, which was the subject of his first
book, Hey, Joe - A Slice of the City, an American in
Manila. While on the hunt for a picture of Miss
Belgium, the toast of the Philippines at the time,
Lerner meets Fidel and "his boys". Having a beer with
them leads to karaoke, more beer and, ultimately, to the
chairman of the board's concert.
Frank Sinatra's
immortal "My Way" epitomizes Manila and the Filipinos.
"The song is so popular and singing it is taken so
seriously that dozens have literally died because of 'My
Way.'" (p 226) Sinatra's performance in Manila was
marred by flubs, mistakes and bad jokes, but no one
cared.
Lerner is a true storyteller, weaving a
plethora of elements together to create a reading
experience that can make you laugh and also shake your
head in disbelief. His tales are told with humility,
humanity and humor. This is not cliched Asia. The
Traveler and the Gate Checkers offers a glimpse into
everyday Asians' lives and finds the region's
uniqueness, making it an extraordinary book that is
unforgettable.
The Traveler and the Gate
Checkers by Ted Lerner, Book of Dreams, 2003, ISBN:
3935508077. Price: $14.95, 249 pages.
(Copyright
2003 Asia Times Online Co, Ltd. All rights reserved.
Please contact content@atimes.com for
information on our sales and syndication policies.)
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