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    Southeast Asia
     Oct 1, 2011


BOOK REVIEW
Before the darkness
Rangoon Journalist: Memoirs of Burma days 1940-1958 by J F Samaranayake

Reviewed by Bertil Lintner

CHIANG MAI - When Josef Ferdinand Samaranayake first entered Burma in 1940, he did not make a brilliant first impression. A police officer in the western town of Akyab, or Sittwe, produced a paper saying that "a Ceylonese tourist has left for Burma on foot. There is nothing definite against him. He appears eccentric and mentally deficient. Watch his movements."

Samaranayake, from Ceylon, or today's Sri Lanka, was in fact on the run from the British police in India. He was suspected of being a Japanese spy simply because he had said Japan would enter

 
the war in Southeast and South Asia before it actually did. He had come to that conclusion from reading a book called The Menace of Japan and therefore could talk somewhat authoritatively about the danger that Tokyo's imperialists posed to the region.

He had chosen to escape to Burma, now known as Myanmar, because he thought he would be safe there. Besides, he writes in his memoirs, "Those were the great days in Burma, the days of the 'Gold Rush' when displaced persons of other countries, Ceylon, India, looked to Burma for high salary jobs. And there were plenty. Employers' touts came to the port, to look for eligible young men to offer them jobs that they would not dream of obtaining in their own country."

Samaranayake's Rangoon Journalist was obviously written during a time when Myanmar was a very different country. He remained there for 18 years, became a journalist and left only after, in 1958, army chief general Ne Win assumed power for the first time. The writing was on the wall about the newly independent country's political direction, and Samaranayake decided to move on. He worked as a journalist in South Vietnam, Sri Lanka and India before he passed away in Bangalore in 1979.

His memoirs are now being published by his descendants and Rangoon Journalist will be followed by similar accounts of his life and times in south Vietnam and Sri Lanka. They have chosen not to change or edit the original manuscript, which is written in quaint Victorian English, full of archaic expressions and ripe with flowery language. But that is the charm of the book and the anecdotes he relates are not only amusing but also a reflection of what life was like in Myanmar before the military takeover.

In 1962, Ne Win seized power once again in a bloody putsch and this time he abolished the country's parliamentary system, and its federal constitution. Newspapers were nationalized and allowed to print only what the new military regime deemed as fit. The country has been under various guises of military rule ever since and the local press has never recovered its lost freedoms.

But Samaranayake does not paint an entirely rosy picture of Myanmar in the 1950s: "Bribery and corruption reigned supreme. In the courts, no peon carried a piece of paper from one part of the court to another unless he was paid, bribed. Magistrates took bribes, office clerks took bribes, and monks extorted money from people. Everyone gloated in corruption."

It was also a time of unprecedented press freedom for Myanmar, a country with a long and proud literary tradition. Although Samaranayake does not mention it in his book, Myanmar was the first country in the region to guarantee freedom of the press, done in an edict issued by King Mindon in 1873. During the British colonial period that followed, new printing methods were introduced and Myanmar was home to dozens of newspapers in Burmese, English, Chinese and several Indian languages. Periodicals were also printed in minority languages.

At independence in 1948, there were 39 newspapers in the country: 21 in Burmese, seven in English, five in Chinese, two in Hindi, and one each in Gujarati, Urdu, Tamil and Telugu. Myanmar's press was more modern, outspoken and professional than media elsewhere in the region, with perhaps the sole exception of India. Samaranayake recounts in intriguing detail his meetings with other journalists and editors, as well as politicians, diplomats and other prominent personalities.

He became an editorial writer for The Burman, and "thus began a career as a controversial writer which brought me into notoriety in the city". Samaranayake, a Roman Catholic, got into trouble with the Buddhist community by "refuting such teachings as the No-Soul Theory, or the doctrine of Karma and Reincarnation." And he accepted an offer from Pakistani diplomats in Rangoon (now known as Yangon) to supply them with "private intelligence information about Myanmar, such as the activities of the Burma [Myanmar] Army, its strength, and so forth", But, he adds, only because he needed the money and then "took to writing some imaginary reports".

During that time he also met Peter Simms, an Englishman turned Buddhist who had married one of the daughters of Myanmar's first president, Sao Shwe Thaike, and become an adviser to one of the country's newspaper editors. What Samaranayake probably did not know was that Simms was also a British intelligence agent, and the model for the chief spy in John Le Carre's classic The Honourable Schoolboy.

On another occasion, Samaranayake wrote about the hardship of Burmese children which had unexpected and positive consequences. Perhaps inspired by his reporting, Daw Khin Kyi, the widow of assassinated independence hero Aung San and the mother of today's pro-democracy icon Aung San Suu Kyi, decided to form Myanmar's first Child Welfare League.

But times were fast changing and on December 30, 1958, Samaranayake "took the lone chilly road from Rangoon city to Mingaladon airport. I said to myself: alone, unheralded I came to Burma, and alone, unheralded I shall leave." At that time "General Ne Win's military administration was ... in full swing, and, on the way, from place to place the soldiers and policemen would stop my car, and want to look into the luggage."

Today, after half a century of military rule in one guise or another, Myanmar's press remains stifled. The Committee to Protect Journalists describes the press freedom situation there as abysmal and has appealed for the release of imprisoned Myanmar journalists. But there are also some positive signs. While the dailies may remain under military control, there are literally hundreds of privately owned magazines and journals that run on a weekly basis due to strict pre-censorship requirements.

Although they operate in extremely difficult and often dangerous circumstances, they are keeping Myanmar's old literary traditions alive - a tradition that Samaranayake has documented in a very personal way before five decades of darkness fell over the country's once vibrant press scene.

Rangoon Journalist: Memoirs of Burma days 1940-1958 by J F Samaranayake. Self-published by Christine Samaranayake-Robinson, Honolulu, Hawaii (2010). ISBN 9 781460 946954, 144 pages.

Bertil Lintner is a former correspondent with the Far Eastern Economic Review and author of several books on Burma/Myanmar. He is currently a writer with Asia-Pacific Media Services.

(Copyright 2011 Asia Times Online (Holdings) Ltd. All rights reserved. Please contact us about sales, syndication and republishing.)


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