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BOOK REVIEWS
Images of Myanmar's tragic past and present
Waiting for the Lady, by Christopher G Moore
Bangkok A-Go-Go, by John Hail

Reviewed by Gary LaMoshi

It is an arresting image of opposition leader Aung San Suu Kyi and one that poignantly conveys the struggle for freedom in Myanmar.

Kazuo [the photographer] snapped three shots of the Lady, her face in a dark, slightly obscured profile, but he assured me that if I saw the photograph, I would have no doubt that the person in the photograph was Aung San Suu Kyi ... Her face - a slight smile on her lips - was only slightly turned towards the camera. Directly behind her, in the rearview window, a clean hole appeared. A hard metal ball had gone straight through the glass leaving a spider web of cracks along the edges. The thugs had used steel ball bearings. You have seen the photographs. The Lady had only been a fingernail's length away from the hole. A little bit more to the side and she would have been killed.
This very real photograph, taken in 1996, appears on the jacket of Christopher G Moore's novel Waiting for the Lady, which traces the tragedy of Myanmar over three generations and much of East Asia. Moore has lived in Bangkok since 1985, where he has been writing a novel a year; Waiting ... reflects the depth of both his regional expertise and his literary skill.

In the novel, the picture of Aung San Suu Kyi becomes one of 19 shots taken with a camera that antique dealer and photographer Sloan Walcott finds at the airport in Yangon. When he arrives back home in Bangkok, Walcott processes the photos. In addition to shots of the Lady, there is another picture that grabs Sloan's interest and rests at the center of the novel.

The last photo was of a girl with long, slender legs wearing a robe curled up on a sofa. She sat with one foot tucked underneath her other thigh. I was drawn to her long fingers and delicate hands; one was positioned on her exposed leg and the other she used as a pillow under her face. Under the robe there was a hint of large and firm breasts, the erect nipples caused the robe to tent out. She might have been sleeping or resting. From the angle of the shot, only one eye was partially visible, and it was closed ... The positioning of the girl had been done by someone who was a pro: a classic after-sex composition, not smutty or overtly sexual, but carefully nuanced with every part of her body in perfect harmony.
On closer inspection, the picture reveals a blue scorpion tattoo on the woman's thigh, heightening Sloan's curiosity and prompting him to search for person who took the photos.

Sloan traces the ownership of the camera to a Japanese photographer, Kazuo Takeda, who has recently been killed in a traffic accident in Japan. Takeda's father comes to Bangkok to recover the camera and collect the photos. Sloan omits the photo of the girl, but Takeda's father identifies the missing shot and asks Sloan to destroy it and banish it from his memory.

That request - along with the lure of Ming dynasty bowls washing out of Chinese graves in the rainy season and an impending release of the Lady from house arrest - drives Sloan to travel to Myanmar with Hart, his British collaborator on a book about art of the Chin ethnic group with family, imperial ties to Myanmar. Visiting Yangon's Drug Elimination Museum under the influence of ice-cold Tigers and smoking "fat ones" that fuel Sloan without compromising his integrity as a narrator, they meet Sarah, who studies Chin tattoos and joins their quest.

The group travels through a Myanmar where tragedy and death are as evident as the jugs of diesel fuel in the back of their Toyota station wagon, and where the release of the Lady provides temporary relief, not fundamental change.

In addition to creating a convincing, entertaining narrator, Sloan, and a story that engages the past and its images on several levels, Moore crafts a tragic Myanmar landscape, mixing in-depth knowledge of the place and its history with a compelling tale populated with characters anyone would be glad to have as travel companions.

The real man behind the camera
Veteran journalist John Hail is the real-life photographer who shot the photo of Aung San Suu Kyi in the back seat of her Toyota after the attack by military junta thugs. Based in Bangkok, Hail was granted a visa to Myanmar in 1996, along with other Western reporters, to cover construction of a Unocal-Total pipeline along the Thai border. A wily, local stringer led Hail away from the reporters' official scrums to a National League of Democracy central committee member's house, where he found the Lady, interviewed her and posed her for the photo.

Hail has now used these experiences in writing his first novel, Bangkok A-Go-Go, which grows out of his 30 years reporting in Southeast Asia. From his Patpong bar, the main character, Jerry Norpark, recalls the long, strange trip that got him there. Introduced to Bangkok as an American GI on leave from Vietnam, Norpark goes AWOL (absent without leave) and lives on the fringes of society.

Writing letters for bar girls, Norpark wins a promotion to teach English and gets mixed up with student radicals during a period of revolving-door military coups in Thailand. Love, politics and friendship lead him to jungle exile, buffalo fighting for family honor and land rights on the island of Samui, clashes with American MIA (missing in action) hunters and on to the back of an elephant surrounded by armed Vietnamese troops on the wrong side of the border.

As Thailand becomes a model of Southeast Asian probity, Bangkok A-Go-Go recalls how different things were not so long ago and reminds us what a short trip it could be back to those frontier days.

Waiting for the Lady by Christopher G Moore, Heaven Lake Press, Bangkok, 2003. ISBN: 974-90755-6-0. Price: US$24.95. 342 pages.

Bangkok A-Go-Go by John Hail, Heaven Lake Press, Bangkok, 2004. ISBN: 974-91588-3-0. Price: US$11.95 (paper). 313 pages.

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Dec 25, 2003



 

         
         
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